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The Negotiator 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel, March 2015
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Aug 26, 2015

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This slab route starts on the upper tier ledge and is the first route right of the Big Deal. It climbs the next set of seams/grooves/shallow corners right of the Big Deal. The rock is a little flakey past the first 4 bolts, then steadily improves and ends up being quality stone, particularly in the grooves/seams that make up a good share of the pitch. The stemming and face climbing in the seams is quite good.

The 7th bolt is a doubled bolt station that was originally put in by the Big Deal team as an intermediate rapp station for that route. The route can be done as one long pitch (60+ meters), although if desired the intermediate station can be used to break it into two shorter pitches.

Another option for finishing the pitch is to join the Big Deal at the P2 flake and continue to it's intermediate anchor located mid P2. This extends the length and makes for a very long pitch (I did it on an 80m but I *think* a 70m will reach as well - be careful.)


First route to the right of The Big Deal. Shares an anchor with Fire Sale, the anchor is between The Big Deal and PBR. Two rapps to get off. Note that the anchor is rings.


18 bolts (as one long pitch.) If finishing the pitch by extending onto the Big Deal include a hand sized cam or two, plus one more bolt.

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By Steve Gomez
Oct 7, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Enjoyed the new route! It felt hard for the grade at 5.10a/b to me. I understand that ratings are subjective but it felt quite sustained. This is also what makes it a good route in my opinion. The first bolt was no give away to get to either, probably the mental crux knowing if you blow it you can take a bit of a ledgy tumble. Cleaned a few flakes, as will the next few people to climb it. It will be a great pitch once it cleans up more.

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