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Unsorted Routes:

The Needle Lies 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Making the stretch on The Needle Lies first bolt

Description 

When you arrive at the top of the trail you will be by a large boulder that splits the crag. The first route to the right of this boulder is 'The Needle Lies'. This route is much harder than 10a unless I missed something severe. The crux involves a reachy deadpoint/throw to a large sidepull. This is going to be quite hard for shorter people (under 5'6") as you will have to use desperate crimps (5.10 Haha). Not a really great warm up as the climbing is in your face from the start. Hope you have fun with this one. Clean rock and holds just a little harder than it looks.

Protection 

3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.


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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The move to the sidepull didn't feel so desperate. I thought this was a good warmup because - what else are you going to start with on this wall? The bolts are well placed and make it a safe route.

After topping out you can traverse right along a loose and slightly sloping but wide ledge to the small tree. Good toproping on stiffer stuff.
By sam flournoy
From: estes park, co
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For posterity . . .agree on the 10 rating, especially for shorter folks. This was a pretty good first climb at Shelf, what with the incredible, sculpted (read: sharp!) limestone features. Get good but polished feet and reach way, way out for a big hold. Fun but pretty easy after that.
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
May 1, 2010

I think 10a is a sandbag, I did Unusual Weather after this and found it to be easier than this route unless I missed something severe. Head over here when The Bank is still in the shade and get warmed up.

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