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Naugahide Stool (originally submitted as Slab Arete), The S 

The Naugahide Stool (originally submitted as Slab Arete) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alvino Pon, 2003 (bolted) Gillett, 2003 (FFA)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 16, 2003  with updates from JFM

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Getting ready to engage the slab.

Description 

This is another new Alvino Pon route. "Slab Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

Begin by some bushes at the right side of the rock. The first bolt is about 10' off the ground. Climb up and leftpast the first two bolts, gaining the clean slab. Make some delicate moves up the slab, and continue to the seventh bolt. Work left past a bulge (crux) and climb easily past two more bolts to the anchor.

The leader can belay from the anchor or lower/rappel 80' to the ground.

Two stars for clean rock, good moves, and airy position.

Per JFM: start with a few easier moves past the first couple of red hangers; follow the line along the arete feature, then back left and up the slap to a fun, well-protected bulge (crux). Finish the route with a few more bolts and a few more slab-moves to the anchors.

Eds. this is a combination of 2 submissions, the first was submitted on a different crag.

Location 

This route lies on the rock just left of the Sentinel, about 100' left of Alvino's Arete. It follows a line of bolts with red hangers up the slab and arete on the right side of the rock.

Per JFM: this route is located on the right side of the formation, about 30 feet from the bottom. Look for a series of red hangers.

Either rap the route (climber's left of the little pine) or go climber's right of the tree down a crumbly face. Either way, a 60m rope will get to the ground.

The anchors may be accessed from the top of the formation also.

Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 80' long; a 50m rope is OK.

Per JFM: the anchor has one cold-shut and one hanger/chain combo.


Photos of The Naugahide Stool (originally submitted as Slab Arete) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab Arete Route
BETA PHOTO: Slab Arete Route
Rock Climbing Photo: At the one move crux.
At the one move crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen climbing the slab above the third bolt. ...
Ron Olsen climbing the slab above the third bolt. ...

Comments on The Naugahide Stool (originally submitted as Slab Arete) Add Comment
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By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Sep 3, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

thought this was a pretty low quality route. Your belay position is in a bush where you will get pulled of your perch if the leader falls. I knocked down a ton of little flakes (I don't think it was cleaned). I heard it was 10a, but I felt like other than the loose flakes it was much easier.

I just don't see it comparing with routes like Panic in the grey room for difficulty.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2004

This route is bizarre and not that great. It's pretty low angle overall and I agree did not seem 5.10 anywhere, probably not even 5.9. The rock is crunchy. The move by the 7th bolt can be anything from 5.8 to 5.?, depending on how you do it. It's bizarre and confusing and I could easily see falling off if you don't figure it out. Sometimes weird is good but in this case I don't recommend this route unless you are in the area.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 10, 2009

The rock this route is on is called "The Pile" and this route is called The Naugahide Stool, according to the new Gillett book.... He is also claiming the FFA. Alvino Pon bolted it but maybe never even climbed it? The rock probably doesn't warrant its own listing, since this is the only route, and it's right next to the Sentinel.
Anyway, worth a lap if you like weird slabs. It's better to rap the route than to lower, because there is tons of drag from all the low angle, rough rock....
By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 2, 2016

Eh, I thought it was good.

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