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The Nameless Tower 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: jacob tipton on Dec 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: South face of the nameless tower in Mormon Canyon.

Description 

Follow the line of weakness on the south face. Multiple options exist to gain the limestone band. We used a right facing corner. Found no fixed anchors at first belay but others were well equipped.

I'll leave it to the first ascent party to comment on grades for each pitch, if they choose to. The overall grade should be taken as a loose guideline.

Bring imagination and a sense of adventure and you will be rewarded.

P1 - Gain a spacious ledge on the limestone band. Spelunking may be required. 5.?

P2 - Climb a crack past a bolt then traverse left to a small stance. 5.fun

P3 - Step left then climb cracks and face to summit. Three bolts. Optional belay 30 feet below summit. 5.thrillin

Rap the route with two ropes.

Location 

South face of the nameless 300 foot tower across from Earth Angel.

Protection 

Gear to 3"
(x1) 4"
Wires
2 ropes


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By Ryan Z
Feb 6, 2016

P1 - We climbed a chossy corner to mixed cracks up to a #3 roof in the limestone band.

P2- Up a chimney that turns into fists and small O/W (bolt) Keep an eye out at the top of the fist/OW shenanigans. That traverse left is not super obvious.

P3 - I had no idea how to get past the first bolt without yarding on it. After that, it was good fun climbing.

Beware on P3. There is a set of anchors just below the summit. 10 feet higher than the anchors, and on the left side, there is a big block that I hand-jammed behind, and the block slid several inches. It is resting on faith. Unfortunately it is directly above where the climb begins, 300ft off the ground.

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