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Midland
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Lay of the Land S 
Nameless Tower, The T,S 
Sweet and Sticky S 
Violent Phlegms S 

The Nameless Tower 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Tower
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Ian Z on Aug 21, 2012

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Description 

The first bolt is a little high, perhaps 15 or 20 feet from the ground above some 5.9 climbing. Continue to a mid 5.10 crux by the second bolt. Place some gear and then continue upwards through somewhat easier climbing and then pull a nicely bolted roof (probably the crux of the route). The harder sections are all bolted. Gear placements are decent though perhaps a little dirty. Shares anchors with "Sweet and Sticky".

Location 

Midlands at Exit 32. The route is to the right of "Lay of the Land" and to the left of the bolted arete route "Sweet and Sticky". The start is on the ground to the left of the ledge for "Sweet and Sticky".

Protection 

Mixed. 6 bolts and "officially" gear to one inch, though smaller cams will be useful.


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By tomtom
May 28, 2017

Crack has been needlessly retro-bolted. No gear required.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Aug 14, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I didn't think anything felt harder than other 10+ routes at the exits. If you try to get up and chicken clip above the roof early you'll make it harder though.

While I enjoy climbing trad, I climb 32 when I don't want to lug a rack around. This may stay cleaner being fully bolts. Cleaner in this case meant we were still cleaning cobwebs from the crack.

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