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The Mystery Machine 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: The warmer months
Page Views: 2,616
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Mystery Machine from the corrido...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route is located in the back of the corridor above Railroad Tracks. Top out on Railroad Tracks and walk to the back of the chimney, the crack/flake on the right is the route. In the warmer months, this is a fun alternative to the heat. THIS IS A LONG PITCH AND REQUIRES TWO ROPES TO GET OFF! I was unpleasantly surprised when the length in the Indian Creek guide was wrong. No one should have to hike back down to the truck in the summer heat only to hike back up and then jug all the way back up to the top because of a little type error.
The climbing is fun chimneying to start until about Twenty-five feet up when the chimney widens and you have to transfer to just the crack. From there, a couple of wide sections and twenty to thirty more feet of solid, slightly overhanging 5.10 tight hands and hands to the top. Oh, and the top move is a little spicy.


Bring one of everything from .5 to #4 Camalots and three or four of .75 to #2 or #3. Watch for sap in the top of the route and again, bring two ropes.

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By Rob Dillon
Mar 3, 2007

I always wondered about this one. Thanks for the beta!
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2008

We only had to down climb the last 20ft with a 70m from the anchors (NOT the topout tree).
By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Dec 13, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

"Like, zoinks, Scoob!" A bitchingly long,varied pitch.
By Devin Fin
Jun 29, 2010

this is a rad pitch !!!! slings and 2 ropes some extra two inch pro. sap at the top for sure . bomber anchors do this thing!!
By earl mcalister
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011

My favorite pitch at the Crick. Varied and in an amazingly cool location. I would recommend bringing 4 red camalot size pieces and 3 of everything else.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 28, 2011

This route can be used to put a TR on "Like a Prayer" a new (and spicy) 5.13- to the left of railroad tracks. Still bring 2 ropes and rappel down and left.
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Mar 28, 2014

Just to clarify, this climb is located ALL the way in the back on the right side. It's a R facing corner. I went in the corridor and went up the splitter halfway back on the left wall. BAD IDEA! There is no anchor and deposits you on a sloping ledge/tower w/ no anchor. I ended up single line rapping with my friend counter-weighting using a 'groove' so the rope wouldn't slide off the ledge and lead to my ultimate demise. 'Yer Gonna Die' FA Ben Riley 5.11- X. (Note: I'm being funny, there is still no anchor's up there and it's not a real rock climb)
By JeffL
From: Salt Lake City
May 1, 2014

This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and definitely belay with a helmet. I grabbed a hold inside the crack and broke a baseball size hold off, nearly missing my belayer. Also loose stuff near the top out moves.

The anchor as of 4/28/14 consists of two bomber bolts with tat and 2 rap rings and 1 quick link. The tat could use some replacing. It would be a great idea to bring a knife and new webbing or cord to replace the tat.
By Eric Fjellanger
May 5, 2015

Really cool pitch!

You can climb above the anchor, another 15 feet through some really bad rock, to top out at the rim. You can wander around up there for a bit, and there's a tree with slings to let you rap back down.

If you do this, it's a good idea for the second to stop at the hanging anchor and reposition the knot below the chockstones, so it will pull cleanly.

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