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B. Middle Cliff Routes
Routes Sorted
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Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

The Mountaineers Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Dylan Oliver, Conor Mark
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: doliver on Aug 4, 2016

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first pitch tunnel

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

Begin 30 feet left of Golf Ball Sized Urethra and 50 feet right of Snap Crackle Pop at the base of a gully.

P1: Scramble up into a small hole in the rock that turns into a massive chimney tunnel. Climb this with combinations of 4th and 5th class climbing for 100 ft trending left. Pop out on a nice belay ledge halfway up the cliff. (5.5)

P2: Drop down to the aréte on the left hand side. Do a couple bouldery moves to gain the hand crack on the right side of the aréte. Climb this to the top of the same detached pillar as Snap Crackle Pop. (5.6)

P3: Scramble down and left from the aréte to a lower ledge, re-establish the belay, then traverse out left onto a floating boulder. Make an airy move from the boulder onto a right facing corner out to the left. Climb this up and left with a balancy move to finish.

Location 

Begin 30 feet left of Golf Ball Sized Urethra and 50 feet right of Snap Crackle Pop at the base of a gully.

Protection 

Wide gear needed to protect the first pitch "well". Fairly easy secure climb so a competent leader shouldn't have to much trouble running this out, though a piece or two should be placed to prevent the rope from getting kinked in the back of the crack. rest of the climb protect with standard rack to 4", some run out sections on every pitch but on easier ground


Photos of The Mountaineers Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: second pitch arete
second pitch arete
Rock Climbing Photo: the top of the tunnel
the top of the tunnel
Rock Climbing Photo: the start
the start

Comments on The Mountaineers Route Add Comment
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By Conor Mark
From: Asheville, NC
Aug 5, 2016

Pretty cool! A unique romp to the top of the cliff with many great views.

From the top of the third pitch, a two bolt anchor in need of chains can be found on the next buttress climber's left, rappel with a single 70.

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