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The Mothership 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: dmPete on Oct 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Eugene working his way towards the seam on The Mot...

Description 

Oh man! If you climb anything between 10c and 11d and you're at Area 51, The Mothership is a MUST DO! Written up as the best climb at the crag in the guidebook, this route is incredibly fun, and will provide plenty of challenge and reward for anyone in this range. The book does not lie, it's simply that good!

It's long, pumpy, full of great moves and has perfectly placed bolts (with the exception of first), there's nothing to dislike here!

The first bolt is 25 feet up, and will be an exposed reach for shorter climbers. If uncomfortable, bring a .5" X4 cam or a larger tricam to place in the horizontal crack just below.

Once clipped, the first crux is a highly entertaining move surmounting the bulge.

Follow the bolt line left on a thin slab as you work yourself into that awesome crease. The bolt line then travels up and right in the crease until you hit a small overhang.

Make the roof moves and pump your way to the finish on ample jugs

Location 

Just to the left of Pod #1 (or, 50 feet right of the tiny bridge). The second route from the right on the blank-ish face next to the approach trail (the rightmost bolt line goes straight up just left of the arete). Look for a bulge in the rock about 25 feet up, and a right leaning seam on grey/brown rock above that.

Protection 

Quickdraws. One optional .5" X4 cam or tricam to proctect the run before the first bolt. Bolted anchors.


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By Byron Marohn
From: Portland, OR
Aug 20, 2016
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Getting the draw on the first bolt is committing! Honestly the next time I'm going to tape a quickdraw to an 8" branch/stick, so I can get the draw hung from the fantastic handhold below. At 5'8", I just couldn't get the draw on the bolt without an extra few inches of reach. Clipping the draw, once hung, was no problem for me. I seriously doubt you could hang the draw with a stick clip because of the configuration of the base.

The first bolt being "25 ft up" thing is also sort of a misnomer - you'll only feel like your 10' above the broken ledge system below. With something to extend your reach a small amount, getting to the first bolt won't feel harder than 5.7.

Once the first bolt is clipped, this route is spectacular. Mantle, crimp, and lieback your way to the top on crisp clean rock.

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