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The Motherlode

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Buckeye Buttress 
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The Motherlode Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.64683, -83.71237 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 18, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the routes in the Madness Cave, from left ...

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Description 

Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.

The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
  • Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
  • Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
  • GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
  • Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.

Getting There 

Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP). Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

60 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',14],['5.12',29],['5.13',12],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Motherlode

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Motherlode:
Chainsaw Massacre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Undertow Wall
Kick Me In The Jimmie   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Undertow Wall
Burlier's Bane   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Undertow Wall
Buff the Wood   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Buckeye Buttress
Ale-8-One   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Undertow Wall
Swahili Slang   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Warm-Up Wall
Resurrection   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Undertow Wall
Heart Shaped Box   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Buckeye Buttress
Stain   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Buckeye Buttress
8 Ball   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 70'   GMC Wall
Team Wilson   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Undertow Wall
Tuna Town   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Undertow Wall
Convicted   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Undertow Wall
Skin Boat   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 80'   Undertow Wall
Snooker   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 60'   GMC Wall
Forty Ounces of Justice   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   Madness Cave
Hoofmaker   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 80'   Undertow Wall
BOHICA   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 100'   Madness Cave
Flour Power   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Madness Cave
The Madness   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 120'   Madness Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Motherlode

Featured Route For The Motherlode
Rock Climbing Photo: The first decent rest on the headwall, 6 bolts in....

Omaha Beach 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Madness Cave
The king line of the Madness Cave, this route climbs out the steepest part of the cave to the highest part of the cliff. Extended to the top of the cliff and sent by Bill Ramsey in 1999, this route was originally graded 5.13d, but upgraded after several holds broke. This is the quintessential RRG line, long and steep, but with generally pretty good holds, and no hard moves for the grade. Starting off the small boulder, pull one of the harder moves on the route a ~V5 boulder problem on small ho...[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of The Motherlode Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This was my first time at The Motherlode. Rainy fe...
This was my first time at The Motherlode. Rainy fe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jessica dominates the Motherlode.
Jessica dominates the Motherlode.
Rock Climbing Photo: Somebody half way up Omaha Beach.
Somebody half way up Omaha Beach.

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