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The Mortuary

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The Mortuary Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on May 23, 2012
Forecast:
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50°
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81° | 52°
Friday

71° | 44°
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53° | 41°
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50° | 38°
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Description 

The Mortuary is a mid-sized crag for the SSV and hosts just over a dozen routes if you are willing to count projects. If you are to inquire about the number of routes a mere mortal might enjoy, that number is closer to ten. These all face North, at least predominantly, and include both trad and mixed lines. A few prominent wide climbs send the invitation for someone to haul up larger cams, from 5" to as large as you would like to bring, though one of each of the two largest Camalots seemed plenty to me.

The routes here have not seen a lot of traffic so while they lie on fairly good stone, some lichen and chips are still present. Keep your eyes open.

Getting There 

The directions to this crag are not precise, and there is not a single well-worn trail. The approach might be 10-15 minutes and is achieved something like this:

Park at The Observatory (5.2 miles up canyon at a large pullout on the right side), and begin the approach for that crag. Rather than going up to access the climbing there, continue around the right end of the crag well below its base and about 5 minutes further, passing to the lower side (North) of some large boulders, hugging their bases until a large cliff appears out of them, rather suddenly, you arrive at the clif at its left end, near the climbs The Crypt and Cryonics, which both start with a wide crack behind a tower that creates the right-facing corner in a small slot, or 'box canyon' of sorts.

Per Ross Swanson: Park at Observatory Rock, and take a trail that heads up Coffintop Gulch, after 2 minutes take the left trail up a steep slope and gully between cliffs. Hike to almost the top of the ridge. About 200 feet below it, find a passage between the cliff bands that leads around corner on right side of ridge to trail and the beginning of Mortuary cliff band. Once around corner, you will find a short buttress with crack and a bolt at its end, some unfinished, very hard route.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.9 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Mortuary
Rock Climbing Photo: About to go off route by going into exit at back o...

The Coroner 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Lyons : ... : The Mortuary
This is a good line with a little of everything, including hidden holds. The diverse nature of the climbing may make a distinct crux either hard to identify or a matter of some debate between parties. Shorter climbers may also find bolt-clipping somewhat challenging in a spot or two.Climb up a moderate move and clip the first bolt just off of the ledge, and get immediately into the thick (and thin) of things with the first crux, which consists of getting to and clipping the second bolt. Gillett ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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Rock Climbing Photo: Boulder with crack, which is seen on the approach....
BETA PHOTO: Boulder with crack, which is seen on the approach....

Comments on The Mortuary Add Comment
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By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Aug 15, 2017
Park at Observatory Rock, and take trail that heads up Coffintop Gulch, after 2 minutes take the left trail up a steep slope and gully between cliffs. Hike to almost the top of the ridge. About 200 feet below it, find a passage between the cliff bands that leads around corner on right side of ridge to trail and the beginning of Mortuary cliff band. Once around corner, you will find a short buttress with crack and a bolt at its end, some unfinished, very hard route.
By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Aug 15, 2017
The Graveyard is further west, we could not get to its base but had to go around to its west side to gain the top, this is a rap in crag.

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