The Mordor Wall Rock Climbing
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...
The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.
Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).
Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.
Climbing Season For the *Cathedral Ledge area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Mordor Wall:
Highway 61 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Lights in the Forest 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c New Hampshire
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The Mordor Wall
Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11. P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80' P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140' P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
BETA PHOTO: a little perspective on mordor wall... My friend t...