The Mordor Wall Rock Climbing
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...
The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.
Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).
Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.
Climbing Season For the *Cathedral Ledge area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Mordor Wall:
Highway 61 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Grand Finale 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
C2 R NH
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The Mordor Wall
A companion to the Mordor Wall.Pitch 1: Bolts and hooks up to a thin crack. C2 (Has been attempted free. May be the cliff's first 5.14)Pitch 2: WILD- move right along a thin seam(rp's)to some fixed stuff. Down climb to the lip and traverse right to the safety of a small ledge. 10+RRPitch 3: Two aid moves on dowels the start a sustained thin slab up to a small roof and Freak Out Ledge. 5.12c A0 Pitch 4: Aid up a crack or face climb out right to bolts and cool steep slab climbing to a ledge under ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: a little perspective on mordor wall... My friend t...