The Mordor Wall Rock Climbing
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...
The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.
Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).
Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.
Climbing Season For the *Cathedral Ledge area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Mordor Wall:
Highway 61 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Mines of Moria 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
C2 New Hampshire
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The Mordor Wall
Boulder up a low slopping ledge to the start of a shallow right facing corner. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, skip this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake. Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay. The third pitch starts up the same crack sy...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
BETA PHOTO: a little perspective on mordor wall... My friend t...