The Mordor Wall Rock Climbing
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...
The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.
Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).
Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.
Climbing Season For the *Cathedral Ledge area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Mordor Wall:
Highway 61 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Pendulum Route 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
: *Cathedral Ledge
: The Mordor Wall
The first climb to go through this section of Cathedral. It used to start off of a branch near the cliff but the tree is gone. Now steep aid to reach the start on bolts of 'Highway 61'. Climb overlap undercling right to reach a decent belay (5.10a) Climb directly up groove corner ( 'Lights in the Forest' has the same start) to moves out left on bulges until ceiling crack is reached. Mantle crack at fixed lost arrow and follow crack to belay place (5.9+). Move horizontal short distance to the bas...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: a little perspective on mordor wall... My friend t...