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The Moose is Loose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ziegler/Pfeiff GU
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/Winter/Spring
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: rickziegler Ziegler on Feb 25, 2016

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The start is at the right of the photo. Hand crack...

Description 

A good variety of crack climbing on this one, with some featured patina face in the middle. Pitch 1 follows a hand crack in a V shaped flare. Jamming, stemming and a little chimney technique gets you to a short but steep flake section. Step left, clip a bolt and move up the feature face to 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 continues up the featured face, past a bolt to the base of a left facing dihedral. From here, work up and right to a thin crack through a bulge (crux, green or yellow alien). Continue up this crack, staying right of the large bush. The crack enters a small corner, with a cruxy bolt protected move. 2 bolt anchor above.

Location 

20 yards uphill (lookers left) from the large orange roof. Starts in a V shaped flare that is more fun than it looks.

Protection 

Doubles to #3 camalot and a few extra small cams. Two raps with a 60 m to descend.


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By Milo
Oct 7, 2016

Fun as hell.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Oct 8, 2016

Thanks Milo! I bet you're the only other party to have done it

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