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The Moon Also Rises 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,617
Submitted By: Lon Black on Jan 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Upper crack above the chimney section

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Just a bit left of Swedin-Ringle is a seldom climbed route. The fact that it's rarely climbed isn't because of a lack of quality; it is because it's wide...that's right, we're talking offwidth techniques.


Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.


Up to a #6 Camalot. Be prepared for a little spice. The mental crux of moving out from the chimney onto the face requires a unique placement if you want it: put a knot in a thin dyneema runner, and slide the knot into the flared bottleneck. It's a somewhat blind placement, but it's bomber. Above this, you can place a 0.5 camalot, then 0.75, maybe two #1s. You could place a #2 toward the top if you wanted.

Photos of The Moon Also Rises Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: O Dub tripod
O Dub tripod
Rock Climbing Photo: New anchor..
New anchor..
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the new anchors...
Looking down from the new anchors...

Comments on The Moon Also Rises Add Comment
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By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Apr 3, 2011

There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle.
By Devin Fin
May 1, 2012

Jason the splitter you two put up is 5 a much safer end to the climb. i saw the old mess of burnt webbing an opted for yer route ... great work..
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2012

Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro would fit. Then again, it's probably easy(er) than I made it if you don't suck at OW.
By Josh Tokioka
From: Cedar City, UT
Feb 23, 2015

  • **Heads up***

I climbed this route this past weekend and went for the direct finish. When I got there, I tried to rebuild the anchor,because it was suneaten and worn. half of it promptly pulled out. What is left is a sketchy bolt and a blue metolius that is pretty jank.

  • **Do not go for the direct finish***, the anchor is quite janky at this point and not nearly as bomber. Anyways, the other finish looks much better.
By Devin Fin
Mar 6, 2015

Anchor is fixed on the direct finish .. They are at the top of the detached piller .. 6inch bolts bomber Q links ... The rope pulles nice an clean now ... Enjoy... DF

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