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The Whale's Tail
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Free Speech S 
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Left Arete T 
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 
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Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

The Monument 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dale Goddard?
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,448
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The Monument with direct finish. Photo: Bob Horan...

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Feeling burly? Dig slippery cave climbing? This hyper-visible line climbs left to right out of the back of the grotty cave on the south face of the Whale's [Tail], right above the main trail to Redgarden.

Either boulder up (slightly heinous) or stick clip the first bolt and continue right on underclings and strange spikes to the lip of the cave. Going left past another bolt to finish yields a fine 13a, while the standard route goes up and slightly right via the crack/layback.

While not the prettiest route in the Canyon, The Monument is athletic and steep and is perhaps one of the most photographed sport routes in America.


Six quickdraws and a medium stopper or equivalent piece for over the lip.

Photos of The Monument Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie turning the lip on The Monument.
Jamie turning the lip on The Monument.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Levison getting the key knee-bar on the Monume...
Dan Levison getting the key knee-bar on the Monume...

Comments on The Monument Add Comment
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By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2007

Here is the rumor/history behind the name Monument. This is not found in the excellent new, 2000 edition, guidebook. The cave was originally a stout aid route. An unknown climber was killed while nailing the roof when a tombstone-sized block pulled out and crushed the poor guy. You can see the spot where the monument block once hung, just past the second bolt. Credible story? Well... the guy (Lee?) who told me this in 1973 was doing Northcutt free with bare feet and had nailed every hairy aid climb in Eldo worth doing.

By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2016

I think it could be one of the better sport routes in Colorado, but it has a potential deck from the 1st to 2nd bolt. With a bolt put in the middle, this is at least a 3 star climb. Oh, well!
By two chains
From: Denver
May 25, 2016

Relax your grounding mind.... If you are 300lbs, you will deck. You WILL slam into the wall if you dork it on the 2nd. Stay strong, make the 2nd clip! Super rad movment!

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