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The Monkey King 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 320', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sylvain Lang, Olivier Balma 2004
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Ken H on Apr 3, 2011

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Rappelling down across Pitch 4.

Description 

There is some loose rock on pitch 5 so helmets are recommended.

Pitch 1: 5.10a 80 ft. climb up the tree to 5.10a face climbing with all your stuff you brought to the crag. Clip your stuff to the double bolt anchors.

Pitch 2: 5.9 35 ft. Move out left and then back right to a thread and one bolt.

Pitch 3: 5.10a 80 ft. head up in a grove move left then back right at bolt 4 (slight long) directly below the stalactite, then up and hard right to a ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.10a 80 ft. walk across the ledge to the right to below a crack in the roof, head up to the crack and chimney a little then lean out of the chimney on crimps to pull through, move further right after the chimney to the anchors.

Pitch 5: 5.8 40 ft. head up and left up easy climbing. Easiest to lower back to belay at pitch 4.

5 single rope Rappels to get down.

You could link some pitches but would need to use slings a lot to manage rope drag. Linking P 2&3 and 4&5 might work out.

Location 

On the south face of Low Mountain. Just down and right from the man made wall. Start up the Y shaped tree.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of The Monkey King Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Views Space Buttress from Monkey King
Views Space Buttress from Monkey King
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on pitch 5.  Monkey King Yangshuo.
Topping out on pitch 5. Monkey King Yangshuo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anja following Pitch 4 of the Monkey King.
Anja following Pitch 4 of the Monkey King.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the belay at the top of pitch 3 as...
Looking down at the belay at the top of pitch 3 as...
Rock Climbing Photo: The short pitch 2 of Monkey King Yangshou
The short pitch 2 of Monkey King Yangshou
Rock Climbing Photo: Anja headed up Pitch 3 of The Monkey King.  5.10a ...
Anja headed up Pitch 3 of The Monkey King. 5.10a ...

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