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The Monk 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 4,768
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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Nice route and beautifull landscape. Thanks to Gab...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing dihedral, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.


2 each, 1.5"-3.5" in 1/2 inch increments. An extra 3" is recommeneded by the Indian Creek guide book but seemed unnecessary.

Photos of The Monk Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Monk: Sweet and a bit tricky right at the end....
The Monk: Sweet and a bit tricky right at the end....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Monk
The Monk
Rock Climbing Photo: Monk
Rock Climbing Photo: Sure, Saxfiend. How's this one?
Sure, Saxfiend. How's this one?

Comments on The Monk Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Dillon
Jun 2, 2006

Red Rocks comes to the Creek. It's probably possible to do the whole thing without putting your hand in the crack.
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2006

...but why would you want to?

Fun climb, cleaner rock than it might look. Whoever dilled the anchor bolts on this thing needs corrective lenses.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Anchor bolts are 1/2-1" out from the wall...sketch! back up the anchor for top-rope and lower off them at your own risk.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 5, 2008

anybody know if the anchor ever got replaced on this one? if not I might be able to do it this weekend...
By mikewhite
Nov 5, 2008

Take the bolt kit.
Post some pics when your done.
By Bret
Nov 3, 2009

Quality route. As of 10/31/09 the anchors are now drilled pins and they look fine, though the slings will eventually need replacement. To avoid walking and backcleaning, 2 #3.5 (or new 4) Camalots and 3 #3 Camalots nicely protect the bottom 50' of fistness. Old #4 camalots are too big.
By Devin Fin
Jan 22, 2010

i replaced those time bombs fall of 08. the bolts were 7inch deck screws. i pulled them out by hand!!!
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2013

Most of the route is baggy #3 camalot. Most people will like to have somewhere between 3 - 5 #3s and a couple of 3.5 camalots in addition to the smaller gear
By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Nov 22, 2014

3.5 camalots are money on the start of this one, new bd #4 fits in places but is tight.

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