|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Rondo Powell & Jo Bentley, 1988|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on The Mojus (aka Slushie)||Add Comment|
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Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|I'd bring some nuts or cams (small - med) to protect the runout at the top. There are placements in the crack to the left that you can make before committing to the final face moves to the rap anchors.|
By Bob Gaines
Jan 29, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb a beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.10b/c; well-protected at the crux) then run it out a bit on easier slab (5.7/8) to a steeper section with 3 closely-spaced bolts (5.10+). At the 5th bolt traverse straight left past a 6th bolt over to a crack/corner (optional belay here at the 2-bolt anchor for Pugsley to reduce rope drag).
On this crux traverse you'll encounter poor rock with disintegrating edges. This section is getting harder and harder as holds are getting stripped off and is now more like 5.11. From here climb past 2 more bolts (5.11a) up to a crack (1-inch CD). From here you can move right and up to the 2-bolt anchor for Addams Family (100-foot Rap.)
The original route followed the crack up to the top of Chili Dog, where you'll find a bolt anchor. From here, a <100-foot rap takes you down to the 2-bolt anchor used to descend from Leap Year Flake, then one more (<100 foot) rappel gets you to the ground.
Pro: 8 bolts, gear to 3 inches.
FA: Rondo Powell, Joe Bentley, and Bob Gaines, 1988
The Morticia variation (5.10d) moves right for the 5th bolt, joining Addams Family for its top section. This variation avoids the flakey upper section of Mojus, for a higher quality pitch.