REI Community
Whiskey Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber T 
Archaeopteryx T 
Back to Basics T 
Bourbon Hangover T 
Bourbon Street T 
Canadian Club T 
Cole Essence T 
Delicate Sound of Thunder, The T 
Desert Wave T 
First Grader T 
Frogland T 
Ixtlan T,S 
Kenny Laguna T 
Matzoland S 
Mazatlan T 
Miss Conception T,S 
Misunderstanding, The T 
Only the Good Die Young T 
Our Father T 
Perplexity T 
Rain Dance T 
Return To Forever T 
Sand Felipe S 
Sandblast T 
Tales from the Gripped T,S 
Triassic Sands T 
Wholesome Fullback T 

The Misunderstanding 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave anderson, Randal Grandstaff 1975
Page Views: 6,146
Submitted By: J. Thompson on May 8, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Mo crushing p-2 of The Misunderstanding.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Misunderstanding starts about 50' left of Mazatlan. Look for a crack in a corner running through dark varnished rock.Pitch 1- climb easy ground, up slightly sandy white rock. Aim for the obvious cracks on the right side of the corner. Traverse left under the roof and pull over the top, onto the belay ledge, belay from 2 good bolts(70'- 5.9).Pitch 2- The meat of the route!! Climb the obvious varnished crack that you've been admiring!! At the top of the crack is another white roof, climb right under the roof to reach another short wide section. Once you reach the corner of the roof you'll see the next anchor, which is semi-hanging.To descend rappel the route with 1 rope(50M).


SR- doubles in the 3 TO 4.5" size's

Photos of The Misunderstanding Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tybo following "The Misunderstanding".
Tybo following "The Misunderstanding".
Rock Climbing Photo: The Misunderstanding
BETA PHOTO: The Misunderstanding
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying p2.
Belaying p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Incredibly fun route; figuring out the best way to...
Incredibly fun route; figuring out the best way to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch has no dull moments. I love this ...
The second pitch has no dull moments. I love this ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. Awesome rout...
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. Awesome rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. One of my fa...
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. One of my fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring 2005
Spring 2005
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonny leading up pitch 2 of "The Misunderstan...
Jonny leading up pitch 2 of "The Misunderstan...

Comments on The Misunderstanding Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 17, 2017
By meo
Nov 7, 2006

These two pitches can be done in one and you can just reach the (easy to downclimb) start with a 70 meter rope from the top. You can easily place four to five #3 Camalots two 3.5s and two #4s or you'll need to keep bringing the pro with you.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

really good and very exciting with a single rack!
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Nov 16, 2008

This climb is good and by liebacking you can avoid any of the usual offwidth trashing techniques.
By smassey
From: CO
Apr 3, 2009

kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you're offwidthing this fist crack, you're doing it wrong. Ha!

Anyway, three #3 camalots work well for this, two number 4s are sufficient, and a 70m line works really well. A great, not to be missed climb if you're in the area.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We were able to get down from the upper anchor with one single 70M rope rappel. It required some easy 4th class down climbing.

The 2nd pitch corner will take Black Diamond #3s or #4s well.
By Cunning Linguist
Sep 3, 2012

The bolted anchors on this route were retro-anchors, courtesy Todd Swain. They were installed when Todd was putting in his nearby routes Perplexity and Miss Conception, original anchor atop P2 was fixed natural pro.

While attempting to switch out a homemade angle iron "cracked hanger" Swain hanger (so-called because they were made at home by Swain, and had cracks at the time of installation at the clip point-Swain still installed them) at the first belay, my party got the pleasure of snapping one of the 3/8 belay bolts at the threads. This is becoming a common occurance-the same experience was had two weeks ago on Triassic's P2 anchor, seems like Swain may have bought a bad batch of bolts at one point, or mixing metals has caused more galvanic corrosion than expected with the angle iron and cold shut hangers that were installed with these bolts. We did not bring the whole replacement kit, therefore the first anchor is one bolt currently, judging from the one beside I wouldn't trust it by itself.

Both anchors will be replaced with solid stainless very shortly. In the meantime, bring a 70M or swing right to the Miss Conception P1 anchor if you'd like to avoid a short low-fifth downclimb. This was replaced last year and is solid stainless. The mess it was before replacement made the Misunderstanding anchors look good...

UPDATE: Both anchor stations are replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. You can donate now if you're feeling thankful-
By Patrick Mulligan
Mar 16, 2013

How folks rate the a 2 star climb I simply don't understand. This thing is old school and classic!
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Jan 5, 2017

Doing it as one pitch is a blast. I took up two 4s and two 3s and thought that it still protected well.
By bmdhacks
Mar 22, 2017

As a budding 5.10 leader, I found the first pitch protected fine with doubles of C4s. I'd climb it with a single rack if I had to. Very thoughtful interesting climbing.

I easily could have placed three #4's and four #3's on the second pitch, and my double set felt really inadequate. Pretty much walked my pieces the entire climb, which was a bit of a hassle.

Rapping on a single 70 brings you below your first placement on the first pitch, and there's a ledge to come off rappel before an easy downclimb.
By Fernando Cal
From: Long Beach, CA
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb! Good hand jams, laybacks, stems, all options are there. I did a combination of all three for great fun! Used four BD#3 and 1 BD#4. Another #4 wouldve been nice, but it was sitting nice and warm at the bottom inside my pack. Bolted anchors with rap rings. Good route for the grade

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About