Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Miser Boulder
Select Route:
Miser, The 

The Miser 

Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: bart cubrich 1 on Nov 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Start on two sharp holds, and do a few hard moves up to gain a slopy jug rail to the left. Top out.


This is on the Miser Boulder.


A pad.

Comments on The Miser Add Comment
Show which comments
Nov 8, 2015
rating: V6 7A

Just to put in a community vote regarding the platform at the base of this problem, I think this platform should be taken down. It is an ugly pile of wood topped off with a palette and covered with dirt. The original intent of the person who put up the platform (it was a guy named Tad) was to create a man-made ledge of sorts covered in grass/forest floor so this problem no longer had a bad landing. However, there is no way to do this, since the platform itself is 5-6 feet tall, 4-5 feet wide in each direction, and hollow, so the sod on top of the platform just dries out into a pile of dirt and roots, leaving an unsightly mess. It would be a pity to have this kind of thing set a precedent.

On the backside of the dome, Tad and others created a couple of different platforms which are far less intrusive and integrated into the forest floor. These were just slightly uneven landings which were flattened out using some sticks and dirt, they are nice and solid, and they should integrate into the forest around them after a few years, so in my mind these are in a different category and represent places where platform building is more appropriate, providing a nice contrast to the platform under The Miser.

I am not trying to pick on anyone specifically or call anyone out as I think the intent with this platform was to do something nice for the community. However, I think it is worthwhile to bring these kinds of things to the communities attention, so the community as a whole can decide on the right course of action, even if that is just leaving things as is. In my mind though, some of the recent platform development in this area is setting a very very bad precedent, and should be addressed.

It is also worthwhile to note that platform building is commonplace at many developed areas. I have heard rumors of problems in Yosemite having the forest floor made into an even and flat landing under problems (in such a way that after a few years one would never be able to tell anything was done), and I can attest to the fact that The Crackhouse had some significant work done on the landing, which is highly appreciated by likely the vast majority of visiting climbers, as without that work there was a very bad 10' back slapping fall onto talus for much of the problem. As a result, these things are situational, and each individual case should be uniquely assessed, with a strong preference toward leaving things as is to the greatest extent possible/reasonable.
By bart cubrich 1
Nov 9, 2015

The platform is definitely not the prettiest thing ever. Also, FA input is appreciated.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!