The Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British R
Avg: 1.2 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | larry miner, david joseph, harry king 9/5/1955 |
Page Views: | 1,043 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Sep 13, 2015 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Another run-out moderate. I guess there is no end to them on this cliff haha. This one is dirty, loose and possibly scary in parts so do the other ones first. That said, the crux run out dike was clean and enjoyable.
We found the experience to be a bit different than the description in our book. So I will give my account and if anyone else has info, please share.
Pitch 1: Easy 5th class. Start up the dike/pockets that begin the dike route and other climbs on the left side of the slabs from the ground. At a large sloping ledge move left to a 2 bolt anchor. There are many options of starts and many will be happy to scramble this section ropeless.
Pitch 2: Follow the fun, obvious dike with minimal protection until the angle lowers and you switch to straight friction climbing past some bushes and such. when you do find cracks be sure they are solid as there is a lot of loose and questionable rock around. Not trusting any of the rock I continued all the way to a large tree with slings in a 200ft rope stretching pitch. (There was mention of a ledge to belay from lower down but we didn't find one. Perhaps it has fallen off haha.)
Pitch 3: Climb up to the left following a crack that leads to some broken rock and scramble back right to the ledge shared by the dike route. Continue up the Dike route or rap off from the tree anchors.
We found the experience to be a bit different than the description in our book. So I will give my account and if anyone else has info, please share.
Pitch 1: Easy 5th class. Start up the dike/pockets that begin the dike route and other climbs on the left side of the slabs from the ground. At a large sloping ledge move left to a 2 bolt anchor. There are many options of starts and many will be happy to scramble this section ropeless.
Pitch 2: Follow the fun, obvious dike with minimal protection until the angle lowers and you switch to straight friction climbing past some bushes and such. when you do find cracks be sure they are solid as there is a lot of loose and questionable rock around. Not trusting any of the rock I continued all the way to a large tree with slings in a 200ft rope stretching pitch. (There was mention of a ledge to belay from lower down but we didn't find one. Perhaps it has fallen off haha.)
Pitch 3: Climb up to the left following a crack that leads to some broken rock and scramble back right to the ledge shared by the dike route. Continue up the Dike route or rap off from the tree anchors.
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