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The Millstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Hollow Excuses T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Surfing on a Rocket T 
Tie Die S 
Unknown Crack T 
Yuppie Love S 

The Millstone Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.62738, -111.71719 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,124
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2004
You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Calling All Karmas 5.12a/b 2. Angle of Repose ...


An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.

Getting There 

Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Millstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, 1000'   
Angle of Repose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yuppie Love   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Personal Jesus   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Strong Arm With the Lads   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Earthling   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Stick Figure Stays Home   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Stone Ground   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Odd Get Even   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Lead Balloon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Milling About   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Moon Walk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Millstone

Featured Route For The Millstone
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug leading the first route of the day.

Intelligient Life Form 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
Good footwork will let you reach the holds that sloppier climbers won't see. Angles are kind of weird. This climb is the first you come to on the 5.2 slab that The Millstone climbs above....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Millstone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from ANGLE OF REPOSE belay
View from ANGLE OF REPOSE belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Get ready for some steep belays.  Might find a cou...
BETA PHOTO: Get ready for some steep belays. Might find a cou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower section of Millstone
BETA PHOTO: Lower section of Millstone
Rock Climbing Photo: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...
BETA PHOTO: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...

Comments on The Millstone Add Comment
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By phUnk
Jun 4, 2007
Headed up to the Millstone on 6/2/2007 for the first time. The talus field was a solid warmup, even though we lost the trail on the way there. We managed to lose the trail on the way back, too, somehow.

I don't think we'll go back up there. The logistics of gearing up, belaying and general "moving around" on that slab are a real pain in the ass. The routes themselves are fun and unique, but you spend more time negotiating the slab and trying to keep your junk from rolling to the bottom.
By zoso
Aug 23, 2011
Ya, climbing outside is a bitch.
By dnaiscool
Apr 21, 2015
Five Eleven Heaven!! Bring that BCC rack (Triples on the TCU #0-3, doubles on the RP nuts, a fist O'Stoppers and one of each Camalot .5 to #3) to supplement the bolts on these "Hybrid" routes.
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 22, 2015
There is a nearly continuous crack system along the base of the wall which makes for an excellent pumpy 300 ft boulder traverse. Start under the ramp below Angle of Repose and climb left. The crack is generally 5-12 feet off the ground, briefly reaching its highest point around Miller Time. Traverse all the way to an obvious ending, just past the right facing corner (“Unknown Crack”). The first half is 11- (a good quick warm up for the harder routes), and the full traverse felt like 12- to me. Folks coming up here to solo Millstone Slab should consider linking it up with this for a grand tour of the crag.

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