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The Middle Way 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Benjamin F on May 21, 2012

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


Contrived, so put on the blinders and resist the urge to go off route to truly experience this line.
Thin start between the base of Dangleberry Crack and Lunch Lady Land. Decent pro above the start, then take the slopey slabby lichen covered path of most resistance, avoiding any and all easier climbing to either side. Some big and committing moves here and there, and gear placements are few and far between.
The crux is the finish, running out the thin face between Dangleberry Crack and the Lunch Lady crack and top out in and belay on the tree branches.


Start is about two feet to the left of the start to Lunch Lady Land, and about three feet to the right of the start of Dangleberry Crack. Check the topo on the front page, path just follows the gap between the two.


Lead: Standard rack, from micro stoppers to medium/large cams. Long cord or webbing for tree branch belay. A little bit run out.

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the tree branches. Back up with gear.

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