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3. The Mid Section

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

3. The Mid Section Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009  with updates from Robert Hall
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BETA PHOTO: The Mid-Section from Face Dances to Rhino Skin (Rh...

Description 

This is the middle portion of the slab. The "toe" of the slab, where it runs the farthest down into the woods is in this section.

There are really TWO SECTIONS to the Mid-Section: The area which is reached DIRECTLY BELOW THE APPROACH PATH ( Pencilneck Geek, etc.) and the area to the left (Face Dances, True Colors, Dead Easy, etc) reached by a path that goes up and left, then down a bit to the "Toe" area.

Getting There 

The current ( 2014) path to the cliff ends at the junction of the far right-end of the “Mid-Section” and the far left-end of the “Perfect Wave Section/”Area”. For the Mid-Section climbs of: Building Steam, Pencilneck Geek, Rubberneck, and Littoral Zone “you are there”. These climbs start, essentially, where the path meets the slab.

To get to the Mid-Section climbs: Face Dances, 50-Center, Coloring Book, Bruin, True Colors, L’Anniversaire, Rhino Skin, Dead Easy, and Livin’ Easy [As well as the path to the Height-of-Land section(area)], use a path that starts to your left at a flagged tree with cairn a few feet in. Hike up a few feet, then over about 100 ft, then down 50-75 ft to the “toe” of the cliff. (NOTE: In years past there was a direct approach “path” to these climbs which branched off shortly after the stream crossing on the main approach path from the logging road. This old approach has suffered from much blowdown and cannot be recommended!)

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 3. The Mid Section
Rock Climbing Photo: Tana Cathcart . Tana had only climbed a couple of ...

Dead Easy 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : 3. The Mid Section
Four Stars !? No joke. I've climbed it 10 or 20 times now (From "launch Ledge", soloing to the trees to set up solo-top-ropes) and it continues to impress with the quality and timelessness. If P2 of this climb isn't the best "first Trad Lead" in the state (if not the Northeast), then I don't know what climb could be. According to Webster's guidebook, this is one of six (6 !) First Ascents made by Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart on Aug 7th 1973, the first expl...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of 3. The Mid Section Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-Section Climbs Approached Directly from where ...
BETA PHOTO: Mid-Section Climbs Approached Directly from where ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-Section / "Toe area" / Rhino Skin to...
BETA PHOTO: Mid-Section / "Toe area" / Rhino Skin to...

Comments on 3. The Mid Section Add Comment
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By dragons
From: MWV, NH
Apr 30, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
"Dead Easy" was dry on April 30 2017, except at the top, but the wetness and mud there did not cause problems. There are two bolts and a chain for rapping at the top of Dead Easy. The bolts are set in a spot that apparently gets a lot of running water. The bolts looked pristine, but the chains on the bolts were suspect (partially rusted). We rapped off a bomber pine tree to climber's right of these bolts.

Water is running down sections of the cliff to climber's left of Dead Easy.

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