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Merkin, The T,TR 

The Merkin 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Alex Verhein and Jacob Manzanares
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 124
Submitted By: averhein on May 4, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: general approach line

Description 

Fun hands to fist crack that feels similar to "Hardly Worth the Trouble" but with a bit more spice. Cruxy bit in the middle of the climb while moving around a bulge in the crack. The pro is good if you pay attention to where you're putting it. Some placements look good but are on shields/flakes that could come off so give them a knock first. Requires some quality jams so you can't get away with face climbing the whole thing which is nice for bishop. Careful at the top out, theres a bush that could snag ya and some loose rock to pick your way around.

Location 

From the hikers summit at Bishop Peak, look toward SLO city and hike down the ridge on deer trails in the direction of the WWW Pinnacles. Once you're about halfway down the ridge and it begins to get steeper, find two boulders on top of the ridge. Stand on them and look left. You'll be looking at the top of the route. From the boulders it will look like two large rocks that form a gully but if you head over to them you can scramble across the top of the gully to the anchor makin station. From the boulders scramble either down the right side of the formation through some brush or scramble to the top of the route, set an anchor and rap in.

Protection 

Cams .75-4 in black diamond sizes singles should do the trick. All trad, no bolts for an anchor. Bring an extra size 2 through 4 for the anchor up top and a few slings to extend.


Photos of The Merkin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the bottom of the route right after its clean...
BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of the route right after its clean...

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