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Apollo Reed S 
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Mercy Seat, The S 
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The Mercy Seat 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Porter Jarrard, 1992
Page Views: 4,681
Submitted By: Eddie Avallone on Apr 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Doug Fischer climbing The Mercy Seat

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Climb Apollo past the second bolt; bear left to blocky pinches below roof. Climb left bolt line past jugs to a hard move to get established in a dihedral. Make a cruxy clip to a big move up and left to a jug.

Race through sequential mini-jugs to the "mercy seat" in the bottom of the big dihedral 1 bolt from the finish. Here it is, self-explanatory throwing up the dihedral required. Very fun!

Depending on your style, this route will might be harder than Pod, and is definitely MUCH harder than Apollo Reed.


Climb Apollo to 2nd bolt and bear left.


Fixed chains! 9 in all.

Photos of The Mercy Seat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Carpenter holding the swing on the crux dyno.
Matt Carpenter holding the swing on the crux dyno.

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By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Jun 3, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

The crux up top is so fun, it's almost stupid. Definitely a significant step up from apollo. I'd say around 12c to a steep rest, to a V4/5, though low percentage.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 31, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Significantly fewer moves than Apollo Reed but with 2 sections that are harder than anything on Apollo in each corner.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
May 23, 2012

Getting into the lower corner is one of the most awkward moves I've ever done on a sport route: crimp-gastoning tiny pebbles and thrutching up with feet way below.

The final crux is just plain fun.
By Chaz-O
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Not that it matters but I felt it was about 13a up to the "seat". You can do the final move either static or dynamic, but it takes more strength to set the static stance.

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