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The Melting Mud Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AltaTraz S 
Antidote S 
Bird Is the Word, The S 
Brain Doner S 
Cotton Mouth King S 
Dayglow Abortions S 
Go Pogo S 
Los Crudos S 
Martinez Mind Melter S 
Melting Into Madness S 
Minor Threat S 
Pogo Punk S 
Public Nuisance S 
Rat Bastards S 
Repeat and Offend S 
Septic Death S 
Sinistar S 
Unknown  S 
Wisky Bench S 

The Melting Mud Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 40.58991, -111.64385 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 19,465
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
Forecast:
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Greg & crew on Melting Mud wall in winter

  • Stay on the trails MORE INFO >>>
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the furthest east of the most significant East Hellgate Walls. Though one of the last to be developed, it is the first one encountered hiking up the trail. Maybe due to this last factoid, it is also probably the most popular and most crowded. MMW offers long and well protected routes, two-pitch routes, aesthetic movement, and modern day classics in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. If one discusses the highest quality (if there is such a concept in some people's minds regarding upper LCC) Hellgate limestone, perhaps the Melting Mud Wall, despite its name to the contrary, stands tall in the quality ratings.

    If you want to get out of the gym and get that high alpine feeling with minimal effort, walk the 7 minutes it takes to get to this place. Big fun will be yours.
    I will warn all visitors again, please wear a helmet at all times while visitng this area.

    Getting There 

    Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon Wall below the Microwave. This is directly across from the Alta bypass road.

    Climbing Season

    For the East Hellgate area.

    Weather station 0.9 miles from here

    19 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in The Melting Mud Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Melting Mud Wall:
    Los Crudos   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Rat Bastards   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 75'   
    Wisky Bench   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90110'   
    Minor Threat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Antidote   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Dayglow Abortions   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Repeat and Offend   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Melting Into Madness   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80110'   
    Martinez Mind Melter   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Unknown    5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    The Bird Is the Word   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 135'   
    Cotton Mouth King   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Sinistar   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Brain Doner   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
    AltaTraz   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Public Nuisance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Melting Mud Wall

    Featured Route For The Melting Mud Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on 1st of 2 overhangs.  2nd is harder then...

    Dayglow Abortions 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Melting Mud Wall

    Photos of The Melting Mud Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Melting Mud Wall from the road.
    BETA PHOTO: The Melting Mud Wall from the road.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Area Photo
    BETA PHOTO: Area Photo

    Comments on The Melting Mud Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By chrisIerickson Erickson
    From: Salt Lake, UT
    Jul 5, 2012
    We got up here with the Mountain Project app and realized it had no info on route locations. For that, you needed to buy 'the papers' at IME for $10.

    Do yourself a favor, if you want to know what you're climbing, go to IME and pick them up and you'll help support the guys developing these areas and spending time and $$$ on bolts.
    By OldManRiver
    From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
    Nov 28, 2012
    ^ +1. IME topo is great. First time i climbed there another group had it. Last time I had it and another group needed beta.

    Love this wall.. the wall is reasonably clean with consistent grade and a lot of fun to climb.. flakes, pockets, jugs, monos, the whole range. Still need to be careful on belay for choss but you should be paying attention anyway.
    By R Connors
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 30, 2013
    Does anyone have any beta for a bolt line located between AntiDote (10a) and Brain Doner (11b)?

    These are shown on Greg's topo as #5 and #6, respectively. Route climbs the face between the two routes and finishes at bolted anchors located directly above the anchors for #5 AntiDote.
    By jzp
    From: Pleasant Grove
    Jul 20, 2014
    Cotton Mouth King 5.11a 15 draws
    By Jonny Wilson
    Sep 6, 2016
    Great Area, stayed till dark and left my Sportiva Futuras lying on the ground, realized it a couple days later when I went out for another session, went back to crag, Futuras weren't there. Please let me know if you came to this crag and picked them up. Left them there August 31st.
    thanks.
    By climb 2 smile
    From: Sandy, UT
    Sep 7, 2016
    I found your shoes and sent you a text.

    To the developers of this area thank you very much. I imagine the amount of time, effort and cost that went into developing the area is staggering. Don't listen to the whiners. To quote the Rollins Band "..the ones that don't do anything are always the ones that try to put you down..."

    Quick and easy access, wicked fun climbing, awesome location, nicely done.
    Thank you, I will buy the topo to help out.
    By Alex Palomino
    Jul 27, 2017
    Went to IME Climbing this morning to get the Greg Martinez Topo Map, but IME told me that it's no longer in print. I didn't spring for the full guide book and hoped for the best. When we arrived, we dade it up to The Melting Mud Wall with MP only no problem.

    The Mountain Project instructions to find the wall were great. The wall was easy to find and the routes were straightforward to discern. Los Crudos (5.8) is right in front of you as you come up the switchback trail (look for the small shrub about half way up the wall). Minor Threat (5.9) is the further right on the wall.

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