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The Mechanic 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1987
Season: Southeast facing route
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: bheller on Jun 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The Mechanic


The "other" bolt protected arete on The Building Blocks formation, easily overlooked. This is one of the few hueco and patina featured routes at the City with an eastern/southeastern aspect. A steep slab at the start draws you into an attractive overhanging arete about 15 feet up. The crux moves involve grabing the right holds as you climb through this steep section. Above the good huecoed patina arete, the route completely changes character. Finish the upper 2/3rds while clipping bolt after bolt on your typical City of Rocks grainy, technical slab.


The south east arete of the Building Blocks formation


Bolts only. Anchors at top. A Stickclip is nice.

Photos of The Mechanic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Yaniro on The Mechanic (5.12a), City of Rocks...
Tony Yaniro on The Mechanic (5.12a), City of Rocks...

Comments on The Mechanic Add Comment
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By Brendan N
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 9, 2009

poorly bolted
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011

I thought bolting was fine, very tension based climbing that makes you think! Enjoy
By dave bingham
Oct 6, 2011

IMO - this route needs a bolt at the bottom so you are not doing the crux 30' off the deck with just one bolt clipped. This was actually retro-bolted but it was not re-engineered.
By dave bingham
Oct 6, 2011

"Raingutter" is the fun bolt line right of "The Mechanic". ..not the one with the ring bolts, but the one that goes up the flare. Cool bouldery moves at the bottom lead to easier but wild stemming.

Greg Lowe reported doing this in the '70's but there is no natural pro at the bottom and no pin-scars. Maybe these bad boys just bouldered the .12 crux and scampered up the flare...
By Kyle Skunta
Sep 15, 2016

Wow, so thoughtful and hard as nails down low. The body tension and transition to slab is committing. Then strap in for a 15ft runout to the 4th bolt on kitty litter 11ish slab which eases off a bit as you go up.

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