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Chicken Head Ranch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bart's Route S 
Beaks and Feet S 
Chicken Spit S 
Cluck Cracks T 
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 
Crystal Key, The S 
Extra Crispy S 
Finger Lickin' Good S 
Fracture, The T 
Funky Chicken S 
Measure Up, The S 
Mini-Slab S 
Mini-Splitter T 
Raining Chickens S 
Super Chicken S 
Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
Thunder Chicken S 
Unjust S 
Wank Variation S 
Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

The Measure Up 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tod Anderson (I think)
Season: DH season. It faces NE, afternoon shade
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: slim on Sep 28, 2015

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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an interesting route that the RRR guide calls the most height-dependent route anywhere. It says the rating could be between 11b and 13a, depending on your reach. I don't think it is quite that bad, but if you are really short, it would be pretty hard.

Begin with not hard, but kind of funky, climbing to get up to the 2nd bolt. Decipher the very few options on an otherwise sheet of glass, and get up to the next bolt. From here, easier climbing up a fun chimney-like feature deposit you in a steep dihedral. Be very careful with the undercling block (don't undercling it if possible...) as you pull around to the right and up to the anchors on 'Those Who Wank...'.

I thought this was around 12a or so for my height (6'1"). One of my partners who is a bit shorter (maybe 5'9" or so) thought it was in the same ballpark. The key is to just execute, don't think, pretty much like always....

Location 

It is on the northeast side of Chicken Head Ranch, just before you drop down onto the ledge where 'Wishbone Dihedral' starts. It is just to the right of the bolted arete 'Yellow Dot'.

Protection 

Approximately 10 bolts. It is best to just stick clip the 2nd bolt, as that's where the action is. Be careful for a bit of a loose undercling block near the top, just before you pull around to the anchors on the right.


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