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Maple Run Wall
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The Mean Sister 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: hasan on Jul 8, 2010

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Description 

Hard for its grade with some speculation that the route is actually 12a. Clip first bolt, then a v2/3 boulder problem to good resting jug. From there go leftwards towards arete using layback and then to compression moves, v4+ boulder problem. From there mantle onto slab, run it out next bolt. Then easier climbing but with exposure to holds under roof. Do big moves, pull roof and then crux mantle.

Bring at least a 60m rope to lower to the ground from the anchor. You can use 50m rope also but you will have to top out and then walk down.

Location 

Walk to the far right to the maple wall, go around the corner, scramble up the small boulders. And proceed straight up over the bulge.

Protection 

9 bolts to bolted anchor.


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By chuckdrew
From: Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Nov 19, 2012

Really Really hard for 11d - although adding the "d" to any rating means it is going to be a gruesome cock fight. Crux was getting into underclings after the 3rd bolt. Good rest with knee-bar before crux.