REI Community
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adipose T 
Aerie Interlude T 
Alchemy T 
Bushwhacker T 
California Weakender T 
Chinese Chicken T 
Compleat Angler, The T 
Dame El Oro T 
Diminishing Returns T 
Double Trouble T 
Electric Chair T 
Fall Line T 
Fingerlings T 
Fire and Sage T 
Fissuremen T 
Full Clip T 
Fun Soup T 
Gas Chamber T,TR 
Gateway T 
Geologic Time T 
Gold Rush T 
Guillotine, The T 
Hip to Toe T 
Horse With No Name T 
JR Token T 
Landing a Monster T 
Long March, The T 
Martian Chronicles, The T 
May Fly, The T 
Midas Touch T 
Monster T 
Mr. Squiggles T 
Muffin Top T 
Out of the Question T 
Out Ridin' Fences T 
Pan Handlin' T 
Pumphouse Park T 
Purple Pinky Eater T 
Question Air Box, The T 
Redd Alert T 
Redside T 
Reservation Blues T 
Rightway T 
River Wide, The T 
Rocinante T 
Shushaynsh T,TR 
Slim Pickens T 
Space Between, The T 
Space Mission T 
Steelhead T 
Straightway T 
Suzuki T 
Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) T 
Time Bomb T 
True Grit T 
Two Step Left T 
Two Step Right T 
U3 T,TR 
U4 T 
Unknown 1 T 
Unknown 2 T 
Wengerbanger T 
Winter Sustenance T 
Wondertwins T 

The May Fly 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 9/09
Page Views: 5,481
Submitted By: Wally Fox on Nov 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


Once the hardest line at trout! It has been rumored that Tommy Caldwell gave it a 5.13- rating. This is a step into hardcore crack climbing, with potential for some big airtime if you blow the crux. What an amazing route!


Left of Mr Squiggles.


pro to 1/2"
anchors at the top

Photos of The May Fly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: will fly
will fly
Rock Climbing Photo: Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck Becker on The May Fly, Trout Creek Photo: Na...
Chuck Becker on The May Fly, Trout Creek Photo: Na...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy W. in the grips of The May Fly.
Andy W. in the grips of The May Fly.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff stepping left.
Jeff stepping left.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy setting up.
Andy setting up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody at the crux.
Cody at the crux.

Comments on The May Fly Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wally Fox
Nov 27, 2010

Anyone have a photo of this route?
By jeffw
Dec 4, 2010

Added a few photos to get YOU psyched Wally. As for the grade, it is definitely a step up in commitment compared other climbs of the same grade at Trout. Still in the same ballpark of difficulty though, and while TC hinted at a slightly harder grade, he thought 5.12+ was fair. Either way the gear is bomber and has been tested many times at the crux.
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 12, 2011

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 28, 2013

My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About