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The Maxx 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Aug 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

The Maxx begins in a right-facing corner with a bolt that leads to a slab. Above the slab is an intimidating, 12 foot roof that is split by a beautiful crack. Boulder your way out the reachy roof to a hand jam at the lip. After turning the lip, climb the slabby splitter above to a 2 bolt anchor. Make sure to place a cam left of the lip in order to keep the rope out of the crack, I guarantee it will get stuck.

Location 

This route is at the top of the approach gully, uphill from the main area by ~100 yards.

Protection 

Fingers through hands, 2 QDs, and slings.


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By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Oct 15, 2014

Great route. Too bad it starts off of the slab as it gives you a little mental buzz. Ripped off the beginning underling. Does not make it any more difficult, just less secure to start. The crux is placing gear on lead. I found that a #3 at the top of the hand jam made me feel happy. Make sure you bring an extra #0.4 to put in a horizontal 3' left of the crack after turning the roof to keep the rope out of the hungry crack!

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