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SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
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Maw, The T 
Monkey Business T 
Paw, The S 
Psychocandy T 
Right Between the Eyes T 
Roast Leg of Chair T 
Roofing Company T 
White Line Fever T 

The Maw 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines, January 2003
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Lisa Pritchett leading The Maw


Sort of an odd route. It is a very segmented pitch with easy boulder problems at each bolt. Do a problem, stand on a ledge... do a problem, stand on an ledge. There are chain anchors on the top of the formation to rap from. If you want to rap after doing Monkey Business you can scramble up to these anchors and then TR this route as a bonus.


This route is just right of an old top rope called Wage and Price Ceiling. It starts just around the corner to the SW of Monkey Business.


Bolts, chains on top.

Photos of The Maw Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Maw" from below
The "Maw" from below
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks big, climbs delicate
Looks big, climbs delicate
Rock Climbing Photo: Always take those no hands rests!
Always take those no hands rests!
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Vaughn pulling over the "maw", hey ...
Dave Vaughn pulling over the "maw", hey ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Maw and The Paw, just right of Monkey Business...
BETA PHOTO: The Maw and The Paw, just right of Monkey Business...

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 17, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Route looks unimpressive from the ground and not so difficult. The start is easy .8 crack to a ledge. Moving onto the face past the first bolt is a bit awkward and the same story of pseudo hard/awkward move when stepping across from the block further up onto the headwall. I was surprised it had any cruxy moves on it at all.

Strange route - OK to TR if you used the anchor to rap from other routes. Not hard to lead, it just wouldn't be worth the trouble.

By Bob Gaines
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Named after the gaping chasm you must stem across to get to the top face. Much more exciting to lead, with good pro (4 bolts plus thin to 2"), although I saw one leader fall down into "the Maw" with an inattentive belayer. It's a fun and somewhat committing lead.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bob..."much more exciting to lead", isn't that the truth! Today's activities were pretty grim actually pulled through at the crux (talk about POOR style!). Funny I didn't remember any part of the route until reaching the step across section.

Star rating is going up. Route takes nice pro down low before getting to bolts (if needed) nicely placed bolts protecting the crux moves to bolted anchors. Sounds like a 3 star mega-classic to me.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
May 11, 2014

I followed this last March. I found the moves somewhat delicate with 3 distinct crux sections... one on each tier. Worth doing.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 21, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Not a sport climb. Unless you want to solo 5.8 to get to the first bolt (about 20 feet up), you'll want some pro to protect the start. I used a #1 metolius (.6 inches) and a #1 camalot (1.5 inches). After that you've got 4 bolts for pro to the top.

The move past the first bolt is a balancey 10a; 5.9 past the second bolt, then 10a/b past the two bolts on the top headwall. The step-across to the top headwall (spanning "the maw") is somewhat leg length and height dependent.
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

After topping out the roof on Monkey Business and belaying up your follower, wander over to the far right side of the ledge and hop aboard the 2nd bolt of The Maw. Makes for a diverse 2-pitch outing I like to call Monkey's Maw.

This route climbs like a series of boulder problems. The final section (2 bolts) of thin edge-pulling on slightly overhanging rock warrants a .10b grade.

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