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The Matrix

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Crackstar Lounge 
Spearhead Base 
Spearhead Left Side 

The Matrix Rock Climbing 


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Location: 48.58174, -120.37378 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,228
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Zachary Winters on Jul 26, 2015
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The right side of sweet spot. Routes here are 5.8 ...

Description 

This is a new cragging area recently developed by Bryan Burdo with 60 routes from 5.6 to 5.11. Mostly well bolted sport climbs, and a couple trad lines with bolted anchors.

Climbing here is great for avoiding crowds at Fun Rock and Prime Rib, and is best for shoulder season climbing or summer days that aren't too hot.

A guidebook supplement with route specifics, photos, and grades can be obtained from the good folks at the Goat's Beard in Mazama.

Getting There 

After stuffing down some pastries at the Mazama Store and grabbing your beta at the Goat's Beard, head SE from the 3-way intersection for 5 min (1.9 miles), turn left on Forest Service road #52, and in a few hundred feet park at the Goat Creek Snopark.

The trail takes off from the S side of the parking area. Approach time is about 10 minutes.

Appreciate the new trail that was recently built by local climbers and the Forest Service by staying on the trail and not cutting switchbacks please.

Have fun!

Climbing Season

For the Mazama area.

Weather station 3.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Matrix

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Matrix:
A   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Spearhead Left Side
D   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   Spearhead Left Side
C   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Spearhead Left Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Matrix

Featured Route For The Matrix
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the top half of the route.

A 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Washington : Okanogan : ... : Spearhead Left Side
A fun mix of climbing styles. A large crack leads to a chimney, followed by a short section of face climbing.Extendable draws are helpful to reduce rope drag. A 60m rope is adequate....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of The Matrix Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Deja Vu area, center.
The Deja Vu area, center.
Rock Climbing Photo: Deja Vu, rightmost route (5.9)
Deja Vu, rightmost route (5.9)
Rock Climbing Photo: Spearhead base
Spearhead base

Comments on The Matrix Add Comment
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By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Sep 8, 2015
Great new addition to Mazama. Had the entire area to myself and partner on labor day weekend while the Fun Rock parking lot was full. Lots of loose stuff here at the moment, so climb on the conservative side, took a few exciting whippers from broken holds.

we climbed 7 routes here. "The sweet spot" had the highest quality lines IMO.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Apr 25, 2016
Update: Temp closure has been lifted and local expert has confirmed that snakes have dispersed. Sure, keep an eye out, but don't let snakes dissuade you from checking out this neat crag. Have fun!

After many rattlesnake sightings, FS biologists surveyed the area and posted the this short-term closure. The area of concern is located at the base of the routes at the "Mezzanine" which is left of "Perfecto Pillar". The estimated number of snakes is a bit startling, but they are mostly near this area and are expected to disperse within the next few weeks. Areas like the "Sweet Spot" are furthest from this area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattlesnake Closure Sign
Rattlesnake Closure Sign

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