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The Sugar Cube
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The Match-Up 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RM Wright, 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical for Mary's Bust
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 28, 2009

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The Match-Up runs up the middle of the west face of The Sugar Cube. For the record, TMU is still a red point project for me (as of September 2009), although it may have seen a red point burn earlier this year (Bernard Gillett?). I was able to free most of it in late September after being unable to even get back for a try throughout most of the last year. The climbing on TMU is intricate and very powerful, at least for me. Start in a wide, rounded groove with pathetically poor feet and power up to the first of a series of rounded lay-away holds inside the groove. The definitive crux comes in getting to and past the first clip. Continue with awkward, torgue-intensive body tension moves. The third clip can be made before reaching a deep hand jam. From the hand jam on through standing above clip seven, the route comes in at 5.12a. It is possible to move out left after the fifth clip for a complete rest, but this sets up a difficult traverse with the sixth clip at your waist (pretty cozy). From the traverse to standing above clip seven entails more powerful climbing with more intricate footwork and body position. The final three clips and the anchor are shared by all three routes with the remaining climbing not harder than 5.9.

I personally thought that TMU was burly, complex, bullet proof, technical, and excellent. I'm posting it now while it is still a project (but presently a very close project) because rumor has it that it has already seen a red point run. At this point, I'm completely easy about someone else climbing it. It's coming together quickly now, and the climbing invokes a lot of the things I learned over the last year training with Dave Wahl and his posse of boulderers. Hard but loads of fun.


This is the middle of three routes presently on The Sugar Cube.


Quickdraws only and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. Stick clip at least the first bolt, possibly even the second (!!!).

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By SethSchrader
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Mar 29, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Super well-protected but awkward, we took almost all of our falls/rests before the 4th bolt this afternoon. Lots of cool moves, lots of ugly moves too. Thought it was cool! Who has the FA?
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 14, 2015
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Very fun route on great stone. I didn't find this to be awkward at all. Good core tension and a little bit of stemming and this thing climbs really smoothly. Personally I wouldn't bother with a stick clip, but the crux is getting past the second clip, so if you did fall you might bang into your belayer pretty good. Thus if you are worried at all may, you want to take Richard's advice and either stick clip the first two bolts or hang them on the way down from the 5.10.

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