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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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The Masterbator's Edge 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Chris Weidner 2/16/08 TR: Matt Samet 2/9/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,540
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Mar 15, 2008

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Chris Weidner on the first ascent.

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  • Description 

    The Masterbator's Edge (credit for the name goes to Mr. Samet) climbs the overhanging arete immediately right of Funeral March. Scramble to the base of Funeral March and launch up the arete. A balancy start with very poor protection yields to a less difficult but still exciting finish. The rock at the crux is less than perfect, but the classic line and thrilling moves deserve 3 stars. I toproped the route several times before leading it, because a fall at the crux would reap severe consequences.


    A handful of tiny RPs and steel nuts can be wiggled in at the start. A #000 Black Diamond C3 can be placed below the crux but it will almost certainly rip (or break the rock) if you fall. For the upper arete it's nice to have a #2 TCU, a #0.75 Camalot, and 2 #2 Camalots. Also, a cordelette around a flake and #3 Camalot are useful as directionals for toproping, with the main anchor being the 2 bolts above Hand Crack.

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    Rock Climbing Photo: The Masterbator's Edge.
    The Masterbator's Edge.

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    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Mar 30, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X

    This is a spectacular route: a highly aesthetic line with great position and fun and delicate moves. Were it not for the less than stellar rock down low, I say its a four star neo-classic. Highly recommended, its easy to set up a TR off the Terminal velocity anchor bolts and a sling around a horn. I think this route could become a classic addition to the 5.10 crack-terminal velocity-TR circuit.

    I think this route is very similar in grade and severity to the Lion as a fall from the end of the crux on masturbator's could easily result in a serious ledge-strike/ground fall if the belayer is not on top of it. And that's assuming the #00 C3 holds (maybe the crack has "opened up" a bit but I found the #00 C3 -purple- to be the best fit here, I think there is a reasonable chance it'd hold a fall). Rocoto pepper spicy for me.

    Great eye, Matt, and impressive rapid ascent, Chris, another great addition to the sand-bag alley area of the West Ridge.

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