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The Masses Are Asses 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Andrew Boyd 1998
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description  

Technical feet, big reaches, good jams and locks and even a crimper or two...it's got it all! Getting the pro just right is half the battle on this stupendous route. Like the book says, the hardest moves are low but if you don't finesse all the way, it'll shut you down! Boulder out the start and lean out to place gear. A few of the placements, especially at the start are hard to spot and a little finicky and some brands work better than others. If in doubt, bring crash pads and/ or toprope first. A stout lead, especially the onsight!

I disagree with what the new guidebook says about this and the route to the left...Switch the descriptions I'd say. This rig might feel more sustained.

Also, this climb and its neighbor to the left may feel hard for the grade OR perhaps many other 12's in the general vicinity are soft...

Pro: Most will be psyched on a double set of cams from .5" to .75" with 1 each to 1.25".

This route is in the middle of the wall and the right of two crack/seam lines.

Do it!


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