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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Murrin Park
> Lakeside in the Woods
The Masses Are Asses
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 11
votes
Routes in Lakeside in the Woods
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[Redacted] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A Modern Art Masterpiece T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bulbous S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bull, The T 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b R |
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Burglar, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Can of Worms, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Coitus Interruptus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Equally Worthless, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fearless Fraser S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freeloader T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gunslinger, The T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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In the Doghouse S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Masses Are Asses, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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More Than Just A Pretty Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Reacharound, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Show me your War face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Texas Steer or Texas Q T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumbelina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tiffany Cuff Links T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Under the Eye of Newton S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whinging Wife, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whiskers of the Observer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Andrew Boyd 1998 |
| Page Views: | 2,549 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Jul 28, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Technical feet, big reaches, good jams and locks and even a crimper or two...it's got it all! Getting the pro just right is half the battle on this stupendous route. Like the book says, the hardest moves are low but if you don't finesse all the way, it'll shut you down! Boulder out the start and lean out to place gear. A few of the placements, especially at the start are hard to spot and a little finicky and some brands work better than others. If in doubt, bring crash pads and/ or toprope first. A stout lead, especially the onsight!
I disagree with what the new guidebook says about this and the route to the left...Switch the descriptions I'd say. This rig might feel more sustained.
Also, this climb and its neighbor to the left may feel hard for the grade OR perhaps many other 12's in the general vicinity are soft...
Pro: Most will be psyched on a double set of cams from .5" to .75" with 1 each to 1.25".
This route is in the middle of the wall and the right of two crack/seam lines.
Do it!
I disagree with what the new guidebook says about this and the route to the left...Switch the descriptions I'd say. This rig might feel more sustained.
Also, this climb and its neighbor to the left may feel hard for the grade OR perhaps many other 12's in the general vicinity are soft...
Pro: Most will be psyched on a double set of cams from .5" to .75" with 1 each to 1.25".
This route is in the middle of the wall and the right of two crack/seam lines.
Do it!
3 Comments