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The Martian Chronicles 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pat McCarthy & Phillip Hranicka
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: patmccarthy on Aug 8, 2016

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Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of Gateway is a unique thin crack. A tricky boulder start over an elevator shaft will initially catch your attention (this is hard to protect so take precaution as a fall here could be suboptimal). Tips lead to good finger locks, pass L under a roof and head to the Gateway anchor

Location 

Right of Gateway

Protection 

Gear to 2"


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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 2, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

Sooo good! The movement on the crux is amazing and the sustained tips/stemming above is super fun too. The start is certainly heads up, but I was able to place a great RP from the 'ground' that held and mostly kept me off the talus. (My knee brushed the pillar and scraped me up a bit, but no real damage done) Regardless, it's a little real right there, so be careful. This thing should get done more as it has one of the best finger/tips cracks at the crag! I thought it was harder than Tawtnak Tiicham and Monster, but easier than Sustenance and Alchemy.

It's worth noting that the FA was done with a 'stick-clipped' hand-sized piece in the pod and that this is a fully reasonable course of action given the start. (would eliminate the PG13 entirely)
By phillip Hranicka
Nov 20, 2016

The FA can blame me for the pre-placed pro: I wasn't gonna rescue him if he blew the opening moves and fell down the "elevator shaft" underneath this route. Was a moot point as he hiked it.

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