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Marjumhorn, The S 

The Marjumhorn 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA. Tyler & Amy Phillips 6/02/05 FFA. Tyler P & Troy Andersen 6/25/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,271
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Oct 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Coming around P3 to the intermediate belay.

Description 

P1: Start on steep black face climbing up into obvious shallow dihedral system, from the top of the shallow dihedral move slightly right and up to a nice ledge and belay. 5.11b 115ft

P2: Climb up the deceptive slab/face making devious moves on good rock to a good belay ledge. 5.10d/11a 90ft

P3: From belay shuffle right around the corner to the north side of the tower, e-z climbing brings you past a old belay and to a missing bolt, commit to the "easy" move above the missing bolt to a clip. From here the pitch becomes sharp and really cool, don't forget to get on that arete and peer around the corner then ramble up to the ?"sidewalk in the sky"? summit. 5.8+ 115ft.

Location 

This is the lookers left of the 2 towers. Look for an obvious bolt line on the front of the tower.

Descent: Rap route

Protection 

Gear: 16 quickdraws, an optional #4 camalot and a few slings. A 70 meter rope, or (2) 50 meter ropes.




Photos of The Marjumhorn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch on the 3rd ascent.
First pitch on the 3rd ascent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit...
Summit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping P1.
Rapping P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hilary coming up P2 after the crux.
Hilary coming up P2 after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hilary coming up to the top of the first pitch.
Hilary coming up to the top of the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zak on the final rap
Zak on the final rap
Rock Climbing Photo: Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch
Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the 1st pitch
Starting up the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
topo

Comments on The Marjumhorn Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 1, 2008

Nice description, makes me think I could find the route and actually pull it off.

How about adding the length of each pitch?
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
May 15, 2010

Nice work, guys! I climbed that thing in 2002, got to the last bolt mentioned and the drill died. Never made it back to finish the last 40 feet.

Jason Stevens
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Apr 21, 2014

Climbed this on 4/19/14. From the summit register, last group to summit was 2006. The paper in the register is the consistency of papyrus at this point, and neither of the pens work. It would be rad if future parties bring up a better register/pens. Overall, a totally cool limestone tower, with a great summit.

Second pitch felt a little more technical than the first pitch, but both were great fun and well protected.

Don't underestimate the approach, takes about an hour up, and an hour down.

Super score by the first ascentionists! Thanks for lugging a drill and bolts up there!

Also, no need for a #4. Save the weight.....
By TylerPhillips
Sep 25, 2014

Jason, it appeared you guys climbed up the backside of the tower. Is this the case? At any rate they both meet at the same spot, 40 feet from the summit. Write up your route! Cheers.

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