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The Marathon Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: The Marathon Crack. Less than vertical tips to fin...


A balancy start in a thin crack/seam that's mostly tips gives way to actual fingerlocks higher as the angle steepens. The climb though short is demanding and requires good technique and a cool head to succeed. Two stars out of five only because it's not longer.


The west face of Pac Man Rock is home to this short but striking splitter that slashes it's way up a steep, featureless slab.


Gear to 1" (pro to 2.5" for anchor)

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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 12, 2010

Two distinct cruxes for avg height climbers, one just short of midway and one at the very top turning onto the slabby finish. A couple of good fingerlocks get you off the ground, then it's long reaches between flaring tips openings and lieback edges until it opens up in a couple spots in the upper half. Take multiple small stoppers smaller than tips and concentrate cams in the black alien/00tcu/purple C3 size, along with singles of the next three sizes up. There are only one or two openings large enough for typical "finger" sized cams, i.e. yellow tcu/alien, and you'll probably skip placing gear in them since you need to crank on them. Perhaps only 25' of real climbing, the final 15' is very low angle.

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