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Stettner Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back 9 T,TR 
Brothers TR 
Front 9 T,TR 
Joseph T,TR 
Mantle Shelf, The TR 
Niche, The T,TR 
Paul T,TR 
Paul's Variation T,TR 
Paul1 T,TR 
Stettner 16 T,TR 
Stettner 17 ("Corner") TR 
Stettner 7 T,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Untied Shoes T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Mantle Shelf 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Aug 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This route is on the northern outcrop of Stettner Rocks, just to the right of "The Niche" (approximately five feet right). There is a pedestal that forms a dihedral - the little dihedral at the start of the Niche. Either start as for The Niche, or start on the outer corner, or start on the outer face of the pedestal to the right of a tree. The latter two starts are about 5.7/5.8.

Once on this pedestal you are confronted by the Shelf. Find a way to stand on this and the rest is easy!

Protection 

None for the crux.


Comments on The Mantle Shelf Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2002

The key to pulling the second shelf is a pinch hold with the left hand. We worked this one for awhile and once we got we did it for time and the quickest was 39 seconds.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My guess is that this climb is below an obvious triangular niche (similar to that of Chicago) and the crux is actually exiting left of the niche using the good ledge out left. Good lead.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 29, 2015

What Andy describes sounds more like The Niche, finished straight up the crack.

I watched 5-6 do the Mantle Shelf yesterday, using 3-4 different methods. Only one person got it on the first try. The key hold for pulling through can only be reached after you are fully committed to the mantle, and is not particularly obvious.

Humbling. Even Pete C. had to think about it (but then rocked it).

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