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Unsorted Routes:

The Man Who Knew Too Little 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nate Sydnor
New Route: Yes
Season: Cooler temps
Page Views: 981
Submitted By: Nate Sydnor on Dec 10, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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I originally planned on having just two bolts...un...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

After a lengthy thought process, and conversations with others in the local climbing community, I decided that this was a worthy route to establish. I really enjoyed the climbing, so hopefully others will too.

The name is a spoof on the International Affair theme, and a tip of the hat to the Bill Murray movie. It's also kind of a jab at myself, seeing as how I added this route right in the middle of everything at Supercrack Buttress. Interpret it how you will. I drilled all three protection bolts and the anchor on lead, from the ground up. Although it's short, it packs some engaging climbing like its neighbor.

Delicate and powerful climbing with tiny gear brings you to a stance at the first bolt. From there, wild chimneying and stemming, and one more bouldery sequence lead to the anchor.

Location 

The next route to the right of International Affair

Protection 

I found the c3s to work best; red to grey. There are 3 protection bolts and a nice ring anchor


Photos of The Man Who Knew Too Little Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drilling the first bolt
Drilling the first bolt

Comments on The Man Who Knew Too Little Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Dec 15, 2016

I believe I climbed this on gear and it went up 100+ feet to an existing anchor after the bulge in corner. Should check it out further up, my memory could be wrong…
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Dec 15, 2016

Yo Jay. You are referring to the route just adjacent to this, on the right. Although not listed online or in Bloom's book, you are correct that there is an anchor up there at perhaps 150+ft. If you look at the photos I posted you can see that the corner on this route, directly above me, terminates at about 50ft.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Dec 28, 2016

Nate great vision !!! Nice find !! "But" get ready for the MP "police" bolt haters to shit all over yer hard work ... come spring of 2017 wen every one Who climbs in the creek so much discover you're route on Mountain project .... edit: climbed this rig 12/29 /16 fantastic route ! 11+ is fair packs a punch right off the ground ! Future classic for sure and a great addition to the wall thank you for your work ...
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Jan 3, 2017

Thanks Devin. I'm glad to hear it. That means a lot coming from someone like yourself who has climbed and contributed in The Creek so much.
By chris Kalous
Jan 24, 2017

Coincidentally, I happen to climb the route you started on this fall. Climb up to those footers right off the ground, then do a little boulder problem right. A few hardish moves get to sustained hands and big hands for a while. A deep crack provides a grunty finish. 5.11ish

The anchor is SHIT, and to get to it, one has to mantle onto a dirt mound.

But if somebody (like me, for example), moved the anchor down about 5 feet, it would be a pretty good route.

But your route does not change it at all, so who cares?

EDIT: New anchor from somebody else as of April 2nd, 2017.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 25, 2017

I just loved the look of this one as I was walking by. It didn't look too bad to me so I got after it. It turned out I only had 2 cams on me small enough to fit in the thin crack. So I ended up reaching around right and protecting in the crack over there. I also used a lock or two out there before getting back in to the corner proper. It was a really fun mental puzzle and a hard onsight even wiith my slight variation. As I was lowering down the route I did reclimb the part I diverted around and it was fun that way too!

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