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The Mallery Boulder

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Who Killed the Butler 

The Mallery Boulder Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Oct 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Mallery Boulder as seen approaching on the Ora...


Maybe 50 feet from the small parking lot, along the right side of the trail to the Orange Crush cliff (just before it heads steeply up the hill) is this large boulder that looks a bit like a climbing shoe, well maybe a very blocky high top trad shoe that has been left in the trunk for a while.

The tallest portion, in the past, before common use of crash pads, used to have two very short bolted routes by John Mallery. The bolts have since been removed except perhaps for one anchor bolt. If you use the bolt, make sure you back it up, as it has probably seen better days.

The well traveled Dr. Mallery is one of the characters of early Rumney, who recognized the sport climbing potential of the area, challenged the ossified traditions of the past promulgated in North Conway and pushed the grade to a higher level.

Getting There 

From the small parking lot take the trail towards Orange Crush and it will be along the trail on your right, just before the trail really starts heading up the hill.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.9 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Mallery Boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the problem looking from the Orange Crush ...

Who Killed the Butler V1- 5-  NH : *Rumney : ... : The Mallery Boulder
This route is short and has some loose stuff on it but it is fun. Start with your hands on a bulge that sticks out from arete and pick any number of feet. Move left and to a good incut hold, then move right hand up a little higher to "slot" from here throw your foot up near where your starting hand was. Then rock up to a higher sharp pocket that is just up and right. Then rock further up and go to the top. The topout is huge.Down climb where ever you feel comfortable, there are many options....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Dec 12, 2014
Does anybody remember the names of John's bolted lines here or some history? I asked Den Dana (the early Rumney guidebook author) and he keyed me into the fact that there were two bolted lines, not just one, but he didn't remember any names.

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