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The Great Black North
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Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 

The Magus 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Dan Durland
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Ben Schmitt on Oct 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The Magus topo.


If the top bit of the climb was 60 feet long, and you didn't have to do the bottom of this route, The Magus would be the best climb at Shelf....

Begin with a long, chossy, and very dirty 5.10 pitch that follows about 9 bolts to the anchor below the large bulge. From here it's fun movement over slightly chossy underclings, pinches, monos, jugs, pinches and crimps through the power endurace bulge to the anchors.

All in all this route is a fun outting, and probably the "easiest" hard route at the area.


The route starts just right of Crunch on the wall up and left of the Borg Boulder. It is the obvious, steep bulge that juts out overlooking the great black north.


About nine bolts to the first anchor, then 5 more to the top.

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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 25, 2011

The movement & position on this line are totally rad. Easily the most exposed route at Shelf. It's too bad the first half of the bulge is rather chossy.

I didn't find the opening slab to be dirty, but it was somewhat spooky with a lot of loose-looking rock (though nothing broke on me).

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