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Beak, The 
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Magoos Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.2283, -122.0957 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,084
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 3, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Trails and boulder locations were done with GPS an...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


Bouldering bouldering bouldering. This is what Castle rock is "famous" for anyways right? Grab and hang onto as many sandstone holds, slopers, jugs, buckets, and little things as you can!

The Magoos are classic bouldering, offering a variety of problems from 5.1 to Vreally really hard. You will see people working on problems in all ranges as well on a weekend, and you may be the only person there on a weekday.

There are no access issues to climb in Castle Rock, unless you don't like people coming to the area that are not climbers watching you in amazement.

Some routes are in the sun, but most are usually in the shade.

Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 15 minutes.

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, head up to Castle Rock proper. This involves taking the paths to the left out of the parking lot, which are all marked as going to Castle Rock.

Walk up the path hanging a right (uphill) at the junction with the service road, and just short of Castle Rock itself you will see a group of boulders on your left 50 yards from the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Magoos

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Magoos:
The Nose   V1 5     Boulder   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Unnamed   V1 5     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
The Warm Up   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Mr Magoo   V1-2 5     Boulder, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Mrs. Magoo   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Magoo Face   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Dog Dish Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Dog Dish Boulders
Gonzo   V2 5+     Boulder, 5'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Yoga Master   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   Mr Magoo Boulder
The Beak Traverse   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   The Beak
The Swim   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Overhanging Lieback   V3 6A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Compression Problem   V3 6A     Boulder   Dog Dish Boulders
Roof Traverse   V3 6A PG13     Boulder, 15'   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Mrs. Magoo Traverse   V3 6A     Boulder   Mrs Magoo Boulder
The Slope   V4- 6B     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Hueco Slap   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Bates Eliminate Left   V5-6 6C+     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
Hueco Wall   V6- 7A     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Bates Eliminate   V7 7A+     Boulder, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Magoos

Featured Route For Magoos
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Asshole Arete V6 7A  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Beak
This is on a boulder behind The Beak (same one that Garage Door is on). This climbs the arete (from a sit start) all the way left of Garage Door. It's a powerful sloper problem...Story of the name:Bruce: "That looks cool, what is it called?"Random Dude: "I dunno."Bruce: "What does it go at?"Random Dude: "I dunno."Bruce, muttering: "What an ass...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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