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The Low Horns

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Gertch 
Gertch's Arch 
Gertch's Half Brother 
Low Horn 1 
Low Horn 2 
Low Horn 3 
Low Horn 4 
Low Horn 5 
Low Horn 6 

The Low Horns Rock Climbing 


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Location: 32.35998, -106.57606 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,804
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Cort on Nov 6, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Lee Davis' update to Dick Ingraham's guide

Description 

The Low Horns form the final northern section of "The Needles" section of the Organ Mountains, ending at Big Windy Canyon on the north, and the higher needles beginning with The Spire to the south. Gertch is essentially the west buttress of Low Horn #1, even though Gertch's west facing wall is much more impressive than the smallish tooth like summit of Low Horn 1. From the West, the Low Horns lean uniformly to the south, and climbing them from the north appears to be easier than the south. The east faces are also much steeper than the west faces.

Getting There 

East approach is recommended. Start on the north fork of the Pine Tree Trail. Leave the trail at the second gully heading up. A short, fat log among the boulders at the bottom of the gully serves as a land mark. Go up left of the gully itself up a shallow draw to avoid brushy terrain. Once the slope ahead starts increasing, your direction will depend on which Low Horn you are going for.

For Low Horn 1 of the saddle between 1 and 2 go to the gully to the right and up it for a short distance before taking to the slabby terrain on the left. You can stay out of the gully for the saddle between 2 and 3 and plot your way by sight. Likewise, but farther left, for the gully between 5 and 6, which is also suitable for descent. It doesn't appear to practical to ascend between 4 and 5, although with some raps, you could descend that way.

Western approach (not recommended) would be up the Big Windy Canyon from the Topp Hut. There used to be a trail back in the day between Topp Hut and Big Windy, now it's a mess of cat claw. Ingraham's guide describes an approach from the bowl between Gertch and Gertch's Half Brother among others. Expect long approach times 2-3 hours and bushwhacking. With some more use, climbers trails will form quickly, but old cairns appear to date from Ingraham's day, and bits of trail, if you find them, seldom amount to much. Even for Gertch's Folly the modern approach is from the east.

Climbing Season

For the Organ Mountains area.

Weather station 11.1 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Low Horns

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Low Horns:
Gertch's Folly   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   Gertch
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Low Horns

Featured Route For The Low Horns
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Tarnosky leading P7. He started out heading c...

Decent Exposure 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  New Mexico : Organ Mountains : ... : Low Horn 5
Decent Exposure climbs the east face of Low Horn 5, staying in the obvious crack system in the center of the face for the first several pitches and then veering slightly right for the upper pitches. It shifts onto the north face in the final pitches, topping out near the north-most of the numerous mini-summits of Low Horn 5. Viewed from Aguirre Springs, the east face of Low Horn 5 is the most impressive rock formation between the Spire to the south and South Rabbit Ear to the north. It would the...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of The Low Horns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Low Horn #5 in center, as viewed from the Pine Tre...
BETA PHOTO: Low Horn #5 in center, as viewed from the Pine Tre...
Rock Climbing Photo: As seen on an early morning approach hike.  Low Ho...
As seen on an early morning approach hike. Low Ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: All of the horns in view on our approach hike 9/22...
All of the horns in view on our approach hike 9/22...

Comments on The Low Horns Add Comment
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By Robert Cort
Sep 23, 2012
I'm going to call these the "Slow Horns." If you rope up, it will be very slow to cross the horns. My suggestion if going north to south: scramble Low Horn 1, rope up for Low Horn 2, scramble Low Horn 3 if you're bold (rope for me), scramble Low Horn 4, rope for a short pitch on Low Horn 5, then scramble over the top of it (although you might want to rope up for a short pitch on 5c too. As for 6, well...the horns are slow, we ran out of time.
By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 17, 2013
Low Horn 6 can also be scrambled, but again some climbers will choose to rope up. Doing all six Low Horns in one day is an ambitious goal. After the first four, you are not even to a half-way point. If you do go for it, pick a day when it's not too windy. The wind up there does tend to be quite high and you'll be scrambling a lot of it to make time.

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