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The Lost Wall
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The Lost Crack 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Rob Phares
Page Views: 932
Submitted By: JNE on Dec 12, 2010

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the beautiful, overhanging crack on the right side of the corridor between the two buttresses. The climbing is a cool mix of jamming and liebacking with your feet in the crack most of the way. When the crack runs out at the top, exit on perfect patina. This is one of the nicest hard cracks I have seen anywhere. This should be on everyone's hard ticklist for Vedauwoo, though it will be especially appealing for those looking to make the transition from hard sport climbing to hard crack climbing.

Location 

This is the gorgeous crack on the right side of the corridor.

Protection 

Small brass nuts up through a #1.75 Friend. I used a small non-production, hybrid Zero (Z3/Z4) that was crucial for the top piece, though an equivalent hybrid Alien (black/blue) or C3 would also likely work. Bolts up top, placed to force pulling the lip.


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By JNE
Dec 12, 2010

In full disclosure, I sussed both the moves and the gear for this one on TR. The two crux placements are small pieces that are strenuous and mostly blind, so I was glad I did. The gear is thin and tricky, so proceed with caution.
By Handsome B. Wonderful
Apr 6, 2011

NICE JOB, JUSTIN! I TR'ed this thing years ago and to be honest was really hoping to one day go back and get the FA. Oh well...he who hesitates.... Great line. It is very striking. I would have guessed a grade in that range. I was surprised by the last crux. If I remember correctly, it's not over until you are standing on the top with this one. To be honest, I can't think of another hard, obvious new cracks out there. Good tick, Justin.
By JNE
Apr 6, 2011

Thanks, Andy. I also thought it was an amazing line, and just couldn't wait any longer. There are still more to do though....

As for the cruxes, I too found it to be on you until you stand up on top. So though it is short, it is full value. I am interested to hear what others think of the grade as well. For me, it felt like a couple easier moves into a hard V8 or V9, then a brief rest on a good tight hand followed by another V6 or V7 crux. I think most people will agree with the difficulty on the 2nd crux, but I think height will play a role in how hard people find the 1st crux. In any case, I doubt anyone will be disappointed with the overall quality of the line.
By JNE
Sep 30, 2015

I might add that the 5.13 grade is for people who are too short to stand on the big foot edge and reach through the crux (so have to do a much harder move off of a bad rand smear to a worse hand, so a harder next move too) and opt into placing all their gear on lead, including the blind and hard to place crux piece which is placed immediately before executing the crux, from a slightly less than ideal position, using the same muscle group as the crux move.

If you are tall enough to reach through the crux and choose to pinkpoint/TR through the crux instead, apparently the grade, which is apparently unimportant and not to be talked about otherwise and no mention of the differences is to be made, is more like 12c, or so I am told.

I'm sure that in either case, this one is a top notch experience :)

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