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The Lord's Prayer 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ward Smith, 10/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: ward smith on Oct 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Chris Smith at the crux.

Description 

When you hit the Very Nice Crack wall, go left and start behind a big boulder. Stick-clip, then follow the right-angling crack/seam past a low boulder problem, a mantle move, and a technical crux. My high school friend Jason "Lord" Peterson flew in from Alaska for a visit and started cleaning it but decided it was too hard.

Protection 

5 bolts to lower-off.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 15, 2014

Nice that one got cleaned up and done. It always looked like it would have some good climbing.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2014

my buddy left a nice booty nut on that one... he tried it while i was putting up the friend zone... i meant to go back and finish it... I look forward to taking a run on it soon!
By ward smith
Oct 17, 2014

Nice booty? All I got was a crappy small nut with a bent wire, ha ha. So that solves the mystery. I figured that it hadn't been climbed since a couple of the key handholds were invisible beneath moss and lichen. Took a ton of wire brushing to bring it to its present well groomed condition.

Saw a guy onsight your route Friend Zone and he seemed to think 11c was right for that one.

Ward
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2014

Good to know! I'm psyched that it got a little action :)
By JHeath
Oct 17, 2014

Lee pointed this line out to me when he was bolting the friend zone. As a new leader to trad, with more ambition than brains, I gave it a ground up attempt. I recall there was a small sapling, perched around the overlap bulge seen in the photo, that I slung and equalized with a small cam as a sketchy piece of pro. I ran it from there until I could get the number 3, nice piece of booty, nut slotted in the crack. Moving past the nut a small ways was where I popped off (around where Chris is in the photo). Thankfully the nut held; Unfortunately it got stuck. From there I brushed off a small amount of lichen and found a smear foot that I could use to make a bigger move up to a sloped hold and finish it up to the top to rap off a tree. I think I wrote down in my journal 5.9 or 10a for the grade. Lee and I were talking about heading back up together to confirm the grade as well as get the first free ascent, without hanging, of the line, as he was the one who had shown it to me, but we never quite made it back. Looks like you put a bunch of work in cleaning it all up. I hope it sees some traffic, there were some cool moves, and an overall fun route. Any chance I can get that nut back? It was off my buddies rack, and he may let me off the hook for owing him one. :P
By ward smith
Oct 18, 2014

Lol. My buddy is flying out to alaska tomorrow but PM me your snail mail address and I will send it to you.
By JHeath
Oct 18, 2014

haah, it's all good my I was joking about the nut
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Oct 19, 2014

Tell Lord Peterson to visit again soon -- there's still plenty of new routing around the summit cliff and the monolith is waiting for a photo shoot. :D
By S. Neoh
Aug 16, 2015

This climb is slow to dry even after light/moderate rain. It was quite wet today. We A0'ed the start to get established on the face proper and it was an adventure all the way to the last bolt with most holds moist or dripping.
I have to try this climb again when it is dry.
By Troy S
From: Somerville, MA
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Interesting route, harder than it looks from the ground. Getting off the ground can be a bit heady.

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