REI Community
The Ultimates
Select Route:
Brown Nosing T 
Hitchhiker T 
Knot What It Seams T 
Lorax, The T 
Pumphouse Primer T 
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 
Twist of Fate T 
Ultimate Dihedral T 
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 
Ultimate Finger Crack T 
Ultimate Frisbee T 
Ultimate OW T 
Ultimator, The T 
White Wedding T 
Young Guns T 

The Lorax 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Mabe / J.Snyder 11/2014
New Route: Yes
Season: spring through fall is best, mostly faces north and a bit to the west
Page Views: 912
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Dec 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Lorax; 5.9+ The Ultimates, AZ

Description 

This "neo-vintage" moderate adventure climbs a buttress-like feature dubbed the Treehouse near the middle of the Ultimates of Pumphouse Wash in three unique pitches.
It's shortish, brownish, oldish, and chossy
but speaks with a voice that is sharpish and bossy.


It's not about what it is, it's about what it can become. UNLESS someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better. It's not.

Pitch Once-Ler - 5.9+, 85': Face climb the blunt and featured arete, with decent pro, biggered by 3 bolts. Crux is rather sequential, but is mostly mental. Head right, for a steep thin hands trihedral of a seemingly detached pillar (though it is also possible to go straight up through a brushy crack instead). Belay at a nice perch with 1 bolt and gear (#1C4).

Pitch Two - 5.9+, 85': Is for you, to do! Beautiful featured splitter fingers to chimney, layback, and stemming! Also keep your left eye open for pro opportunity near the top. Belay on a nice saddle with two bolts. One of three best pitches on the route!

  • Move the belay by stepping around the block to the right, and follow the ramp to generous 3-bolts still in sight. 4th class.

Pitch number tree - 5.9+, 90': Tip-toe the exposed sandy ledge to a nice lower-angled big-fingers corner, and Truffula Jug.
Not to be a nag,
but watch for drag.
#hashtag sandbag.
Head for the intimidating blocky roof with jams and jugs and even jam-jugs too!
Charge on through is the thing to do!
Finish with a fairly steep big hand crack and bulge to the top. Belay at the tree.

At the far end of town 

Take the road to North Nitch,
turn left at Weehawken and a sharp right at South Stich.
Where the canyon of Pumphouse bends to the west,
where the grickle-grass grows above the forest.

Thneeds 

Rack two of blue to blue - C4#.3-3.
A C4#4 is handy,
especially just above the crux roof dandy.
Some nuts, #6-10 HB offsets,
takes care of the rest.
60m rope, half-dozen slings,
a few quickdraws, and your favorite sandcastle things.

Getting down 

Unless you are committed to the "Lorax Loop",
you can get back down by rapping this route.

...kind of. The first rap you will have to swing to the ledge (90'). The second rap drops into the Sandbox, though aim for the crook of a giant tree (80'), and pull your rope through the glippity glup and schloppity schlopp. The last rap goes to ground (110'), and is more comfy with a 70m rope.


Photos of The Lorax Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ultimates Treehouse, featuring "The Lorax&quo...
BETA PHOTO: Ultimates Treehouse, featuring "The Lorax&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Choss eating grins. Jeff and I after topping out o...
Choss eating grins. Jeff and I after topping out o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the Treehouse, from top of UFC.  P...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the Treehouse, from top of UFC. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bag O Tricks above the frozen Ultimates.
Bag O Tricks above the frozen Ultimates.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Lorax
The Lorax
Rock Climbing Photo: D. Mabe going deep and steep P3
D. Mabe going deep and steep P3
Rock Climbing Photo: D. Mabe on P2
D. Mabe on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: The Onceler-Pitch
BETA PHOTO: The Onceler-Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: left foot left foot, right foot right. Jefe FA's T...
left foot left foot, right foot right. Jefe FA's T...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Lorax Loop", you ask? Here is the a...
BETA PHOTO: The "Lorax Loop", you ask? Here is the a...

Comments on The Lorax Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 1, 2014

5 star description!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About