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Classic Bolton crack climbing! P1 is a grovelly short offwidth. Bring very large cams or big bros, or sack up and run it out. good arm bars but hard to move up and somewhat dirty. Grovel through brush to a hemlock tree. Belay. P2 - Climb the sweet chimney (5.7) good gear in the chimney to the high point of upper west.
The upper chimney is visible from Duck Brook circle. The bottom offwidth is located immediately right of stone staircase downhill about 200' left of the Rose.
Aug 28, 2014
Wow this thing is a crazy adventure! Very wide gear needed for first pitch a 6 protects crux but it's bigger up top. Second pitch is the wildest squeeze chimney I've ever done make sure your partner and you can both fit in this slot canyon. The whole thing can be climbed with one #6 if you like squeeze chimneys...
There is a 5.6 variation that stays out of the chimney and climbs up on the face around it thats not bad.
Aug 11, 2016
Did this route again yesterday and after reviewing the guidebook i think the proper finish is to climb the face to the right of the initial squeeze chimney on the second pitch then enter the chimney at the upper ledge where its more reasonably sized. Did the lower chimney again and holy Sh#@ was it hard to fit through, must have been way skinnier 2 years ago. Took 45 minutes of full on thrutching and a mini epic redirecting the rope as my followers couldn't fit! Moral of the story I wouldn't recommend the "direct" squeeze unless your rather skinny