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The Looking Glass

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Crew Arete T 
Bone on Bone T 
Brevis Arbor Fragor T 
Double Stem T 
Fracture Dynamics T 
Pain is an Emotion T 
Through the Looking Glass T 

The Looking Glass Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Murf on Nov 30, 2007
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High on Fracture Dynamics. Photo by RKV.


The Looking Glass is a remote portion of the "ridgeline" that runs from The Shady Spot, through Ellsmere Island, Hidden Dome, etc. to the highpoint at Keys Point. The 80' northeast face cannot be seen from the road. As noted in Joshua Tree West, the southwestern exposure is "small, broken, and unimpressive".

Getting There 

One way to get there is to follow the approach via Key's Point. From Key's Point, angle down and left to the base of the main northwest face, where Through the Looking Glass and Fracture Dynamics are located..

An alternate method would be to approach on the right side of the Outward Bound Slab. From the right side of the OBS head into the gully, on mostly easy boulder hopping. From the bottom of the ravine, head uphill. Aim to split the gap between the Greenhorn Dome and The Looking Glass. This approach will put you at the base of the Birthday Crew Arete with the main southwest face 150 yards below and to the left.

Climbing Season

For the North Wonderland Approach area.

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Looking Glass
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving left at the second ledge.  Through the Look...

Fracture Dynamics 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Looking Glass
Fracture Dynamics climbs the center of the face, following a thin crack for most of its length. Begin by climbing a loose crack to a ledge and clip the first bolt. Work up and right to a second, smaller ledge, where a possible piece can be placed. From this ledge follow the thin crack to the top. Consistent 5.10 climbing rather than a particular crux characterizes the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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